tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84892180579719447652024-03-12T20:29:46.206-07:00Frolicking FrocksNataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-58703513948639394582014-01-01T15:53:00.000-08:002014-01-01T15:53:55.179-08:0016th Century Peasant Dress: Research and PlanningOne area of the costuming community that I have not yet ventured into is the world of Renaissance reenacting. When I was very young, I enjoyed visiting the local Ren Fair with my family, but until this past October, I hadn't been to one since I was in high school. (My 16-year-old self was rather proud of the "Renaissance-inspired" costume I put together, consisting of a generic laced bodice worn with layers of hippy-ish skirts and jingly jewelry -- you know the look.)<br />
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Earlier this year, when a girlfriend at work suggested I come with her to one of the many area Renaissance fairs, I thought it would be a fun opportunity to revisit something that I had enjoyed as a child and that had fostered my early love for costumes. But this time, I would approach my costume from a more educated, enlightened perspective.<br />
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And so, in usual fashion, I began researching. Right off the bat, I knew I would do better to start with an outfit appropriate to a lower-class impression. All the glitz and glamour of an upper class Elizabethan court gown is lovely to look upon, but expensive and difficult to do properly. Accordingly, I set my eye on a comfortable, tidy, working-class ensemble like the ones shown in all the Dutch genre paintings of the period. In particular, these paintings by Pieter Aertsen inspired me:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ihibQoc7bQE/UsSmqf7-2DI/AAAAAAAABXk/tWTMivwvM80/s1600/Pieter-Aertsen-Market-Scene.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="514" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ihibQoc7bQE/UsSmqf7-2DI/AAAAAAAABXk/tWTMivwvM80/s640/Pieter-Aertsen-Market-Scene.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The lady on the left is wearing a practical and versatile ensemble: Her sleeveless dress is enhanced with an apron, a removable partlet, and pin-on sleeves.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e6zI98_8yXc/UsSmq_1w7lI/AAAAAAAABXs/8ly80HwmD28/s1600/Pieter-Aertsen-Vegetable-Seller-1567.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="636" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e6zI98_8yXc/UsSmq_1w7lI/AAAAAAAABXs/8ly80HwmD28/s640/Pieter-Aertsen-Vegetable-Seller-1567.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are the same pin-on sleeves and partlet, but this time with a wide-brimmed straw hat (very appealing to this sunburn-prone girl).</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bC4zhp7zcjI/UsSmqTkU3lI/AAAAAAAABXw/CCRGsXSTpgo/s1600/Pieter-Aertsen-Farmers-Feast-1550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="444" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bC4zhp7zcjI/UsSmqTkU3lI/AAAAAAAABXw/CCRGsXSTpgo/s640/Pieter-Aertsen-Farmers-Feast-1550.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This lady has on a simple white head-wrap of some kind to keep her hair covered and clean. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hq2l06kbVWg/UsSmqQp-v1I/AAAAAAAABX0/ccrt50-EOeE/s1600/Pieter-Aertsen-Christ-and-the-Adultress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hq2l06kbVWg/UsSmqQp-v1I/AAAAAAAABX0/ccrt50-EOeE/s640/Pieter-Aertsen-Christ-and-the-Adultress.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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More straw hats, aprons, and pin-on sleeves. </div>
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As I began wading through the wealth of research and information on this period that can be found on the internet, two sites in particular stood out from the rest, both for the volume of information, and for the detail and clarity of instruction. The first is Drea Leed's excellent <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/">Elizabethan Costuming Site</a>, which catalogs her own research on many related subjects in addition to linking to many sites. The information is very helpfully arranged by subject. I spent days following almost every link on the page.<br />
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The second is <a href="http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/index.htm">this site</a>, which details the construction of an outfit very much like the one I wanted to make: simple, working-class clothing that is highly accurate in look and construction.<br />
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The other resource that I stumbled onto early in my research was <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Tudor-Tailor-Reconstructing-Sixteenth-Century/dp/0896762556">The Tudor Tailor</a>. This book is a definite must for anyone wanting to recreate clothing from this period. It is brimming with useful information and anecdotes, period portraits and images of extant garments, and a series of patterns that can form the basis of a wardrobe for the humblest of working-class laborers or the queen herself.<br />
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After studying these resources, I determined that the simplest and most accurate ensemble would consist of the following items:<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">linen smock</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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wool kirtle</div>
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pin-on wool sleeves </div>
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black wool partlet </div>
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linen apron</div>
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linen coif and forehead cloth<br />
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Quite a lot of stuff to make! And of course, I decided early on that I would have to sew it all by hand for accuracy. Stick around to find out how I put it all together!</div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-23306676563899965892014-01-01T15:21:00.001-08:002014-01-01T20:40:30.014-08:001920s Day Dress<div>
In September 2013, I attended my first ever Gatsby Picnic. This event, put on by the <a href="http://www.artdecosociety.org/">Art Deco Society of California</a>, tries to recreate the feel of a large 1920s summer party, with live entertainment, elaborate picnics, gorgeous vintage cars, and people dressed to the nines in clothes from the 1920s and 1930s. </div>
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Being my first entree into 1920s dress, I was rather nervous about what the silhouette would look like on my curvy hourglass figure. All the fashion plates show slender and willowy ladies looking elegant in their dropped-waist and blousey dresses. However, I know for a fact that anything blousey or dropped-waist makes me look frumpilicous, or at the very least, much larger than I actually am. </div>
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A look at photographs from the period was reassuring, however. Guess what? Lots of women in the 1920s had figures like mine, and it didn't stop them from wearing the latest fashions. Yes, they did look a little frumpy by modern standards, but they didn't seem to care in the least. I decided that I wouldn't care either, and just embrace the frump.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AXhn5RlfcyM/UsScTwDw64I/AAAAAAAABWw/3vLM0ET5ZVA/s1600/1920s-lovely-ladies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AXhn5RlfcyM/UsScTwDw64I/AAAAAAAABWw/3vLM0ET5ZVA/s640/1920s-lovely-ladies.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These ladies know just how fabulous they look. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b46S-DFCEuM/UsScUFRuYcI/AAAAAAAABXA/JBnx5Vflbag/s1600/Family-ladies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="396" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b46S-DFCEuM/UsScUFRuYcI/AAAAAAAABXA/JBnx5Vflbag/s640/Family-ladies.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is an old photo from my father's family archives. Look at the diversity in figures!</div>
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I elected to steer clear of the popular choices for patterns, wanting to avoid the cookie cutter look. Instead, I took on the challenge of a Past Patterns Attic Copy, that is, a reprint of an original pattern, complete with vague directions, useless yardage recommendations (nobody makes 36" wide fabric anymore!), and missing dots and notches. </div>
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The pattern that ended up catching my eye was this one:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0KYaoNigT-8/Uo1uPDPHY6I/AAAAAAAABUk/AibHNOhswag/s1600/Past-Patterns-3110L.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0KYaoNigT-8/Uo1uPDPHY6I/AAAAAAAABUk/AibHNOhswag/s400/Past-Patterns-3110L.jpg" width="146" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.pastpatterns.com/3110.html">Past Patterns #3110</a></div>
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From their website: </div>
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<span style="background-color: #eeeeee;">This pattern was published by The Butterick Design Pattern Company. Originally the pattern was described as "Ladies' Dress, closed at the back, with separate shirt-waist, and tucked straight skirt. Attached to a long body lining marked for camisole top." Fully illustrated directions. Pattern dates circa 1922-1923.</span></blockquote>
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A simple shape, some interesting details, but none of the overdone design elements that abound in reproductions from this era (zig-zag seaming, handkerchief hemline, asymmetry, etc.). I initially wanted to use a lightweight cotton in a floral print, but I couldn't find one that really felt right for the period. Instead, I settled on a solid cotton voile in a very pretty cornflower blue that I knew would look good on me. In the end, I was quite happy with my choice -- the deep tucks in the dress bodice and skirt would not have shown very well in a print, but helped to give the solid color some texture and interest. </div>
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I lined the dress in a rayon fabric in a lighter shade of blue, to further highlight the tucked detailing. The collar is made from some off-white cotton sateen from my stash, and the buttons are mother-of-pearl.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iovGRDMsmnE/UsSfTTsvrHI/AAAAAAAABXM/czd-nloNf2g/s1600/1920s-dress-full.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iovGRDMsmnE/UsSfTTsvrHI/AAAAAAAABXM/czd-nloNf2g/s640/1920s-dress-full.jpg" width="342" /></a></div>
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The finished ensemble</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_heHvTsD1CI/UsSfTWpD27I/AAAAAAAABXQ/p5yYHdzLQEg/s1600/1920s-dress-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_heHvTsD1CI/UsSfTWpD27I/AAAAAAAABXQ/p5yYHdzLQEg/s640/1920s-dress-back.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Back view (ignore the bicycle)</div>
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The pattern went together pretty well. It was supposedly sized for a 34" bust (mine is closer to 38"), but when I measured the pattern, the finished bust measurement came to about 44". I decided not to alter the size at all. The only change I needed to make was to make the dropped waist a little bigger so it would sit lower on my hips. This was a simple alteration: I just gathered the bottom edge of the shirtwaist less than the pattern called for.<br />
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I found a modern straw hat that had a cloche-like shape, but with a slightly larger brim for sun protection, then trimmed it with a vintage ombré ribbon. I also bought a cheap paper parasol in Chinatown to further protect my delicate skin from the full sun I expected at the picnic. I found a vintage tooled leather handbag on Ebay for the occasion, then finished off the ensemble with some vintage ivory kid gloves, <a href="http://www.whatkatiedid.com/en_us/product/844/seamed-stockings">reproduction seamed stockings</a>, my <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/gibson-womens-edwardian-shoe-tan-brown">American Duchess Gibsons</a>, and modern pearl drop earrings. </div>
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In the end, I felt pretty good about the outfit. I'm not sure it's my favorite silhouette, but it wasn't as bad as I expected. Going with an early '20s shape helped a little, as the waist was not dropped all the way to the hip.<br />
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The picnic was a great time. All my friends looked beautiful, our picnic was a success, and despite the intense heat, we really enjoyed ourselves. I'll definitely go again next year!</div>
Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-67705109636688484272013-12-31T20:44:00.001-08:002013-12-31T20:44:30.315-08:001790s Open RobeI know I promised you updates weeks ago, but my life got a little crazy. My husband and I rather abruptly decided to move out of the apartment we've been in for the past few years and into a lovely and much larger house. The good news is I now have a much nicer sewing space; the bad news is my free time in the last few weeks has been taken up by all the fuss of packing, moving, unpacking and settling into our new home. No time for blogging!<br />
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As 2013 draws to a close, I want to catch up on all the sewing I've done since the summer so I can start fresh with regular blogging in the new year. My last proper post was just before Costume College, so let's start there!<br />
<br />Since I made the decision to attend Costume College rather late in the year, I didn't have much time to make clothes specifically for it. Luckily, I had made several new dresses earlier in the year that would work well for some of the events. My <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/05/gibson-girl-gown-complete.html">Gibson girl ball gown</a> would be perfect for the Gala, my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/early-1870s-day-dress.html">striped bustle day dress</a> would be lovely for the Sunday Tea, and my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/06/clara-barmaid-bustle-dress.html">red barmaid dress</a> would be fun to wear during the day. The one event that I felt unprepared for was the Ice Cream Social. I wanted something somewhat formal, without being a ball gown. The only thing I had that was even close was my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/regency-muslin-dress.html">white muslin dress</a>, but it wasn't quite right either. It was pretty, but a little bland. To dress it up a bit, I decided to make a sort of open robe to wear with it.<br />
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The vision in my head was for something along the lines of the following fashion plates:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FDXnuz3VXjA/UsNj42I-PzI/AAAAAAAABVM/xtuN7GxieSk/s1600/1794-Robe-a-la-Turque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FDXnuz3VXjA/UsNj42I-PzI/AAAAAAAABVM/xtuN7GxieSk/s640/1794-Robe-a-la-Turque.jpg" width="522" /></a></div>
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1794</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PpWNeFr2kiI/UsNkvXNsUVI/AAAAAAAABVc/ZfgnaD_R2ZQ/s1600/1797-turban.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PpWNeFr2kiI/UsNkvXNsUVI/AAAAAAAABVc/ZfgnaD_R2ZQ/s640/1797-turban.png" width="372" /></a></div>
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1797</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1_RmU08GjLc/UsNkEmM4grI/AAAAAAAABVU/UQCXRvYk3SM/s1600/blue-open-gown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1_RmU08GjLc/UsNkEmM4grI/AAAAAAAABVU/UQCXRvYk3SM/s640/blue-open-gown.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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I can't find a date for this one, but probably 1797-1800. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VgKZfslBah8/UsNkxpeAdAI/AAAAAAAABVk/9JKtisZSOVE/s1600/1800-purple-open-robe.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VgKZfslBah8/UsNkxpeAdAI/AAAAAAAABVk/9JKtisZSOVE/s640/1800-purple-open-robe.png" width="392" /></a></div>
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1800</div>
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As you might recall from <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/1790s-turban.html">the post about my turban</a>, I was lucky to find a great fabric for my robe at Discount Fabrics. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kt7u-TeOaJw/UeNwm4TRfSI/AAAAAAAABRI/FC4G_HqzTdU/s1600/gold-silk-and-shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kt7u-TeOaJw/UeNwm4TRfSI/AAAAAAAABRI/FC4G_HqzTdU/s640/gold-silk-and-shoes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the fabric with my shoe again.</div>
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While researching the common shapes and construction of this style of garment, I came across an extant robe made from a textile that clearly evoked my chosen fabric:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iJDfGavddX4/UsNn8PqbFkI/AAAAAAAABVw/hGCf5SdNKIs/s1600/ROM-gold-open-robe-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iJDfGavddX4/UsNn8PqbFkI/AAAAAAAABVw/hGCf5SdNKIs/s640/ROM-gold-open-robe-1.jpg" width="494" /></a></div>
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Royal Ontario Museum, 1801</div>
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(I can't link directly to the item page. If you go to their <a href="http://images.rom.on.ca/public/">image database page</a> and search for accession #2004.33.1 you can view more images.)</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCFGLC037P4/UsNn8faH87I/AAAAAAAABV0/COaZtLrIyko/s1600/ROM-gold-open-robe-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCFGLC037P4/UsNn8faH87I/AAAAAAAABV0/COaZtLrIyko/s640/ROM-gold-open-robe-2.jpg" width="482" /></a></div>
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Back detail</div>
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I modeled the cut and styling of my robe on this one, using the pattern from my muslin dress as a base. I lined the bodice and sleeves in a tan cotton/linen blend, but left the skirt/train unlined. I ended up cutting my train much shorter than the original garment, as I didn't want to be tripping on it all night. I also made wider straps for the front closure. </div>
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Without further ado, here is the finished product:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WdEAyr1N4jU/UsNqih6XYUI/AAAAAAAABWE/o9FBvX_eisY/s1600/open-robe-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WdEAyr1N4jU/UsNqih6XYUI/AAAAAAAABWE/o9FBvX_eisY/s640/open-robe-front.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This is also the first proper picture I have of the white dress with its <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/long-sleeves-for-mrs-bennet.html">long sleeves</a>. My accessories include a <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/1790s-turban.html">draped turban</a>, an <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/regency-reticule.html">embroidered reticule</a>, and my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/02/painted-pemberleys.html">turquoise Pemberley shoes</a>. I'm rather pleased with the overall look, but there are a few details I would like to change if I decide to wear it again. The front straps need to be angled differently; they rode up as the night wore on and didn't sit smoothly. Also, the sleeves should be an inch or two shorter to make the proportions work. But for something I threw together in a week or so, I feel pretty good about it!</div>
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At the Ice Cream Social, I posed with a couple of other lovely ladies who showed up in similar styles: </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w1l4-bksmFo/UsOYWTiOvyI/AAAAAAAABWU/DeZ_QwwSkqs/s1600/IMG_3121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w1l4-bksmFo/UsOYWTiOvyI/AAAAAAAABWU/DeZ_QwwSkqs/s640/IMG_3121.jpg" width="584" /></a></div>
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With Aubry and <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/">Jen</a></div>
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Jen and I even had matching shoes!</div>
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Costume College was a wonderful time. I can't wait for next year! But when I came back, I hit the ground running with several more costumes. Stick around to see what else I've been up to...</div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-62338963923754999352013-11-20T18:00:00.000-08:002013-11-20T18:00:50.406-08:00Playing Catch-upIt has been a very long time since I updated this blog. To anyone who has been checking back to see what I've been working on, I'm sorry for leaving you hanging.<br />
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I have been sewing. In fact, I have been sewing so much that I haven't had much time for anything else, blog-updating included. Since I last posted, I went to my first Costume College, my first Gatsby Picnic, and my first Ren Fair in ten years, all of which required exciting wardrobe additions. Then there was Halloween, and now I'm making a new dress for Dickens Fair. You see why I haven't had time for blogging!<br />
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I will be posting pictures and details of all of the clothing I've made since July over the next few weeks, so please stay tuned. In the meantime, here's a little preview to keep you interested:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w7VpUuLRXn4/Uo1o1HJBRTI/AAAAAAAABUU/6X8qVfBOdN8/s1600/sneak-preview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w7VpUuLRXn4/Uo1o1HJBRTI/AAAAAAAABUU/6X8qVfBOdN8/s640/sneak-preview.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-80709688769536857432013-07-30T08:27:00.000-07:002013-07-30T08:27:27.399-07:00Regency ReticuleAs I continue to build my Regency wardrobe, I have found myself in need of a reticule. Since those flimsy, figure-hugging Regency gowns leave no room for pockets, a girl needs a place to put her fan and handkerchief, to say nothing of the anachronistic necessities of cell phone, car keys, and such.<br />
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Small decorative bags were all the rage during this period. They tended to be rather fanciful in shape, their pointed, geometric outlines highlighted by embroidery, tassels, and other embellishment.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wz7OkozTBYo/Ufcle1wLGgI/AAAAAAAABS0/gORajIrfnPg/s1600/MFA-four-sided-embroidered-reticule.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wz7OkozTBYo/Ufcle1wLGgI/AAAAAAAABS0/gORajIrfnPg/s640/MFA-four-sided-embroidered-reticule.jpeg" width="472" /></a></div>
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Early 19th century, <a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-115931">MFA Boston</a></div>
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This particularly fabulous example is actually four-sided; each side has a different central motif. Click the link above to see pictures of the other sides. </div>
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As I hunted for inspiration in online museum collections, I noticed a common theme in the reticules that I was drawn to: most of them were white/off-white and decorated with colorful embroidery. Certainly there are many examples of brightly colored reticules, but the white ones seem a bit more common and were the ones that caught my eye.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i5OzkgB7pXs/UfclU_yorFI/AAAAAAAABSg/s8MQZP0Sc2U/s1600/V%2526A-reticule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i5OzkgB7pXs/UfclU_yorFI/AAAAAAAABSg/s8MQZP0Sc2U/s640/V%2526A-reticule.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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1800-1824, <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75387/purse-unknown/">V&A</a> </div>
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This is one of my favorites. So many tassels!!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mNLDscNMA20/UfclU-pjtcI/AAAAAAAABSk/NSQNdhl5pgA/s1600/V%2526A-embroidered-reticule-pink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mNLDscNMA20/UfclU-pjtcI/AAAAAAAABSk/NSQNdhl5pgA/s640/V%2526A-embroidered-reticule-pink.jpg" width="520" /></a></div>
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1790-1800, <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75165/bag-unknown/">V&A</a></div>
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A slightly earlier example with very ornate embroidery. You can see how these little bags would have easily developed from 18th century pockets. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vx2_X88_7hI/UfclU5wB4XI/AAAAAAAABSs/PxtDXrLk9GA/s1600/V%2526A-embroidered-reticule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vx2_X88_7hI/UfclU5wB4XI/AAAAAAAABSs/PxtDXrLk9GA/s640/V%2526A-embroidered-reticule.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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1820-1830, <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O135238/bag-unknown/">V&A</a></div>
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Yes, this is a bit later, but I love the embroidery. </div>
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After ogling all these pretties, I just knew my bag would be white. The current Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge happens to be a white theme — what a convenient coincidence!<br />
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I was lucky to pick up a half-yard remnant of creamy off-white silk taffeta for about $3 at Discount Fabrics a few weeks ago (there were tape marks along part of it, so they gave me a steep discount off the remnant pricing). Perfect for this project, since I can easily cut around them!<br />
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I chose a simple shape, typical of the period: basically a rectangle with a triangle at the bottom, like the one shown here:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zeAua0gtGlM/Ufcfzyuco5I/AAAAAAAABSI/Ube9cY4lKjQ/s1600/1801-white-reticule.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zeAua0gtGlM/Ufcfzyuco5I/AAAAAAAABSI/Ube9cY4lKjQ/s640/1801-white-reticule.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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The shape narrows at the top because of the drawstring. </div>
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For the embroidery pattern, I poked around online to find a motif that evoked the style of embroidery seen on originals — something delicate, scrolling, and floral — and found one I quite like. I would share it here, but I can't seem to find either the image itself or the website I got it from. Sorry!<br />
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I chose embroidery floss colors that seemed period appropriate, then started stitching. I am a very inexperienced embroiderer, so I just made stuff up as I went along. The stems were done in split stitch, the flowers drawn with outline stitch, and most of the rest is some kind of satin stitch. I realized after the fact that chain stitch might have been more appropriate, but I'm still fairly pleased with the result:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6i0feoD-RE0/UfaM3U57yXI/AAAAAAAABR0/qbOUtbthWRk/s1600/embroidered-Regency-reticule-flat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6i0feoD-RE0/UfaM3U57yXI/AAAAAAAABR0/qbOUtbthWRk/s640/embroidered-Regency-reticule-flat.jpg" width="548" /></a></div>
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The bag is lined in lightweight white cotton. The tassels are handmade from sz. 30 silk thread, and the drawstrings are 5/8" silk satin ribbon.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0VNqFoxHSb4/UfaM3Z-6wsI/AAAAAAAABRw/ly4Vxtj3Qwk/s1600/embroidered-Regency-reticule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0VNqFoxHSb4/UfaM3Z-6wsI/AAAAAAAABRw/ly4Vxtj3Qwk/s640/embroidered-Regency-reticule.jpg" width="530" /></a></div>
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All in all, a very simple and satisfying project! </div>
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The details:</div>
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The Challenge: #15 — Colour Challenge White</div>
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Fabric: Off-white silk taffeta, white cotton for lining</div>
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Pattern: improvised</div>
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Year: 1790s-1820s </div>
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Notions: DMC cotton floss, sz. 30 silk thread, 1-1/2 yd 5/8" silk ribbon</div>
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How historically accurate is it? Fairly accurate, to the best of my knowledge. I know next to nothing about period embroidery, so the stitches or floss may be wrong. The farbics are good, the construction is plausible, and it is entirely hand-sewn. I would say at least 7 out of 10 for accuracy. </div>
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Hours to complete: 4-5 hours for the embroidery, plus about 2 for construction. </div>
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First worn: will be used at Costume College 2013</div>
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Total cost: around $12 (about $3 for the silk remnant of which I used only a tiny portion, $4.25 for the silk thread, and about $4 for the silk ribbon — cotton lining and embroidery floss were from my stash)</div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-23373332245355016542013-07-21T10:57:00.000-07:002013-07-21T10:57:12.146-07:00Early 1870s Day Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here's another post to catch you up on the things I've been sewing lately! Last month I made an early 1870s day dress to attend an event put on by the <a href="http://www.gbacg.org/">Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild</a>: a Tissot Bustle Picnic. Inspired by the paintings of James Tissot, the picnic was held at the lovely <a href="http://www.ebparks.org/parks/ardenwood">Ardenwood Farm</a> in Fremont, CA. There were chickens and peacocks and doves and a blacksmith shop and a beautiful late-19th century farmhouse — in other words, a perfect backdrop for frolicking about in fluffy dresses.</div>
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My dress:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-71VBK5Enbxg/UdGkJN9pC-I/AAAAAAAABMM/pZ2VI3JVCxk/s1600/striped-bustle-dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-71VBK5Enbxg/UdGkJN9pC-I/AAAAAAAABMM/pZ2VI3JVCxk/s640/striped-bustle-dress.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This is the best shot that I managed to get on my phone camera. Please disregard the errant ostrich feather — it was blown askew by the day's lovely breeze. I fixed it later!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Gjyi9adBE0/UdGkIQumhsI/AAAAAAAABMA/ZxLlPfr1-zI/s1600/gbacg-bustle-picnic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Gjyi9adBE0/UdGkIQumhsI/AAAAAAAABMA/ZxLlPfr1-zI/s640/gbacg-bustle-picnic.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The picnicking in progress</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TnXWiCmoadw/UdGkHZqU4cI/AAAAAAAABLs/mB0MPVpWsFM/s1600/Patterson-House-bustles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TnXWiCmoadw/UdGkHZqU4cI/AAAAAAAABLs/mB0MPVpWsFM/s640/Patterson-House-bustles.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Outside Patterson House</div>
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My Dress Inspiration:<br />
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The time frame for the event was based on Tissot's career and was therefore quite broad: 1868-1888. I have been itching to make an early 1870s dress for some time, so I decided that this would be the occasion. As I started to plan my dress, I hunted for inspiration in Tissot's paintings. The dress that caught my eye is a eye-popping striped frock that appears in several of his paintings:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oIOxzUOra9Y/UceYivDccZI/AAAAAAAABJU/LrlARTX465w/s1600/the-return-from-the-boating-trip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oIOxzUOra9Y/UceYivDccZI/AAAAAAAABJU/LrlARTX465w/s640/the-return-from-the-boating-trip.jpg" width="435" /></a></div>
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<i>The Return from the Boating Trip</i>, 1873</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NTXTqvFBCXo/UceZvJAfOzI/AAAAAAAABJk/yDs9lJsVGiI/s1600/boarding-the-yacht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NTXTqvFBCXo/UceZvJAfOzI/AAAAAAAABJk/yDs9lJsVGiI/s640/boarding-the-yacht.jpg" width="460" /></a></div>
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<i>Boarding the Yacht</i>, 1873</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X9FsWA6z-Lw/UcehOfRxmbI/AAAAAAAABJ0/1dgDknyAtUo/s1600/still-on-top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X9FsWA6z-Lw/UcehOfRxmbI/AAAAAAAABJ0/1dgDknyAtUo/s640/still-on-top.jpg" width="382" /></a></div>
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<i>Still on Top</i>, 1874</div>
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As I continued looking for inspiration, I came across a photograph from the period that gave me a new brilliant idea: </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EI0ixwIxWqQ/UdDOPsP_FaI/AAAAAAAABLM/Och0x2drl1c/s800/Denmark-princesses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EI0ixwIxWqQ/UdDOPsP_FaI/AAAAAAAABLM/Och0x2drl1c/s640/Denmark-princesses.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Dagmar, Alexandra, and Thyra, daughters of Christian IX of Denmark</div>
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Here were three Danish princesses, all wearing frilly, ruffly dresses in exactly the style of early-1870s dress I wanted to make. My Tissot bustle dress could also be my entry for HSF Challenge #12 — Pretty, Pretty, Princesses!</div>
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Here's a brief explanation of who these lovely young girls were and why they were important:</div>
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These princesses were the daughters of Louise of Hesse-Kassel, a minor German princess, and Christian of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Glücksburg, a minor Danish prince. Christian unexpectedly succeeded to the Danish throne in 1863 after the previous king died without an heir. </div>
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As a result of their father's good fortune, these girls rather abruptly became some of Europe's most eligible bachelorettes. Princess Alexandra married Queen Victoria's eldest son and heir and eventually became the Queen Consort of the United Kingdom and British Dominions and Empress Consort of India. Princess Dagmar married the heir to the Russian Empire and became Empress of Russia under the name Maria Feodorovna. Princess Thyra married the exiled heir to the Kingdom of Hanover, technically becoming the Queen of Hanover (she and her husband lived in exile in Austria, but he never renounced his claim to the throne). In addition, one of their brothers succeeded their father as King of Denmark, and another brother became George I of Greece. </div>
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What a family! For those of you who are keeping track, Princess Alexandra is Queen Elizabeth II's great-grandmother, and Princess Dagmar was the mother of Nicholas II, the last tsar of Russia.</div>
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Here are some more pictures of the princesses, all of which capture perfectly the feeling I was aiming for with my dress:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59AYOxcyR5s/UeAcJhyjeOI/AAAAAAAABOY/YyssLxJF5Y0/s1600/Danish-princesses-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59AYOxcyR5s/UeAcJhyjeOI/AAAAAAAABOY/YyssLxJF5Y0/s640/Danish-princesses-2.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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Check out all those ruffles! And those giant braided hairdos!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5JtPjSIYnuw/UeAcJlIJDWI/AAAAAAAABOc/zwBD_KStBKM/s1600/Danish-princesses-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5JtPjSIYnuw/UeAcJlIJDWI/AAAAAAAABOc/zwBD_KStBKM/s640/Danish-princesses-3.jpg" width="458" /></a></div>
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Here are the princesses with their mother and father. I just love the tiny hats!</div>
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My dress: </div>
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I knew I wanted my dress to have stripes, and I thought cotton would be the best fabric for an afternoon picnic. I ended up finding a nice shirting-weight cotton in a grey and white stripe that worked perfectly. It's stripey without being quite as dizzying as the black and white striped dress from the Tissot paintings. </div>
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Dresses in this period were covered in scads of ruffles and trim. I think I spent more time on trimming this dress than on actual construction! The base skirt, overskirt, and sleeves are edged with gathered flounces of the striped cotton cut on the bias. I then trimmed the flounces with a delicious lavender velvet ribbon, accented with bows made from a matching silk satin ribbon. I used a matching lavender silk taffeta for the covered buttons and the box-pleated frill around the neckline. I also trimmed the neckline with some cotton lace, which I used to edge the cotton organdy undersleeves as well. The same cotton organdy made a faux chemisette to fill in the open neckline. Lastly, I made a separate belt out of the lavender silk taffeta, with a satin bow to hide the hook-and-eye closure. </div>
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The best photos I have of the dress were taken by the lovely Kim Yasuda. The next few shots are from her photoset, which you can view <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7181690@N03/sets/72157634292514497/">here</a>.</div>
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My favorite shot of the front of the dress:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b5f7zfL0FQE/UeG6ilKHq0I/AAAAAAAABPQ/s3XMWxDA3z0/s1600/On-the-steps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b5f7zfL0FQE/UeG6ilKHq0I/AAAAAAAABPQ/s3XMWxDA3z0/s640/On-the-steps.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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On the front steps as we began a tour of Patterson House. </div>
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Here's a shot that shows the neckline trim and my braided hairdo:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VJy3AfRKoW8/UeG5amqk1lI/AAAAAAAABOw/FgHBhDTWVgg/s1600/Striped-bustle-dress-closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VJy3AfRKoW8/UeG5amqk1lI/AAAAAAAABOw/FgHBhDTWVgg/s640/Striped-bustle-dress-closeup.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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My feathers were behaving better by this point!</div>
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I think the dress looked best from the back:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cqEZ3VLBIdc/UeG5zd87KZI/AAAAAAAABO8/_oLVYma7FO4/s1600/Striped-bustle-dress-rear-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cqEZ3VLBIdc/UeG5zd87KZI/AAAAAAAABO8/_oLVYma7FO4/s640/Striped-bustle-dress-rear-view.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Checking in at the gate</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sVqqzH9cl7E/UeG50rXVtBI/AAAAAAAABPE/Rzhkn3D5Gyg/s1600/Walking-to-the-picnic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sVqqzH9cl7E/UeG50rXVtBI/AAAAAAAABPE/Rzhkn3D5Gyg/s640/Walking-to-the-picnic.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Walking to the picnic site</div>
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I wore the dress with a simple lobster tail bustle, one plain petticoat, and one with deep ruffles. My hat was a tiny black straw hat from the Berkeley Hat Company, heavily modified and trimmed with cream and pink paper flowers, lavender silk satin ribbon, a vintage black silk taffeta ribbon, and two small grey ostrich drabs. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LIN8WmKiwGY/UewfwFJlG4I/AAAAAAAABRY/88w-S0vuh2M/s1600/millinery-cat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LIN8WmKiwGY/UewfwFJlG4I/AAAAAAAABRY/88w-S0vuh2M/s640/millinery-cat.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Jane the cat finds hat-trimming rather boring</div>
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I carried a cheapo nylon-covered costume parasol purchased <a href="http://www.westernersoutfitter.com/parasols%20pg1.htm">here</a>, and wore my American Duchess <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/tavistock-victorian-button-boot">Tavistock button boots</a>. My necklace is a lovely (antique?) porcelain pendant with painted flowers that I picked up at the Alameda Antiques Fair last month. Here's a closeup to show you how pretty it is:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZ2NuVNyevY/UeHB4hGg0JI/AAAAAAAABPg/-XqxZluIs-M/s1600/porcelain-pendant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZ2NuVNyevY/UeHB4hGg0JI/AAAAAAAABPg/-XqxZluIs-M/s640/porcelain-pendant.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I think I paid $5 for it. </div>
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Here are the details for my Danish Princess 1870s day dress:</div>
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The Challenge: #12 — Pretty, Pretty Princesses</div>
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Fabric: Grey and white striped cotton shirting, lined with white pima cotton broadcloth and trimmed at the neck and sleeves with a bit of white cotton organdy. Also, some lavender silk taffeta for some of the trim. </div>
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Pattern: The bodice is <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=32&cat=2&page=1">TV400 -- 1871 Day Bodice</a>. I modified the back slightly, combining the side back and side pieces into a single piece. That extra seam isn't very common in the earlier bustle period. I also added deep flounces to the sleeves. The skirt pattern is from <i>Period Costumes for Stage and Screen</i>. The overskirt is from the striped dress on pg 28-29 of <i>Patterns of Fashion 2</i>. </div>
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Year: 1870-71</div>
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Notions: hooks and eyes, lavender velvet ribbon, lavender silk satin ribbon, white cotton lace, covered buttons (the Dritz ones — I was being lazy)</div>
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How historically accurate is it? Pretty good. My materials were all plausible, though the velvet ribbon is rayon instead of silk. Techniques were all period-correct and my patterns were all very accurate as well. </div>
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Hours to complete: no idea — many</div>
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First worn: Tissot Bustle Picnic on June 23, 2013</div>
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Total cost: around $175</div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-7763224669566564572013-07-14T21:03:00.000-07:002013-07-14T21:03:24.446-07:001790s TurbanThis year, I will be attending Costume College for the first time. I'm super excited! I made the decision to go rather late in the year, and therefore was unable to make any clothes specifically for the occasion, so I'll be revamping and reprising some of the garments I've made in the last few months.<br />
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Part of my plan is to wear my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/regency-muslin-dress.html">white muslin dress</a> again, but enhance it with some exciting additions. I think an overdress of some kind is in order, perhaps an open robe? I found a beautiful deep gold silk with a subtle stripe and jacquard floral pattern on sale at Discount Fabrics that will be just the thing. The deep bronze-ish color is a bit striking against my almost-Tiffany-blue <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/02/painted-pemberleys.html">Pemberley shoes</a>, but I think with the right accessories, I can pull them together.<br />
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Here's a sneak peak of the fabric with my shoes:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kt7u-TeOaJw/UeNwm4TRfSI/AAAAAAAABRE/AdHxigFNSTo/s1600/gold-silk-and-shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kt7u-TeOaJw/UeNwm4TRfSI/AAAAAAAABRE/AdHxigFNSTo/s640/gold-silk-and-shoes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Isn't that fabric pretty? I'll be starting the robe very soon, but f</span>irst up is new headwear! When I wore the white dress before, I didn't have enough time for anything elaborate, so I just wrapped some gold braid around my head. It was simple and effective, but for Costume College, I want something a bit more exciting.<br />
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Luckily, the current HSF challenge is perfect for the task. The theme is Eastern Influence, and the late 1790s were full of clothes and accessories that reflected the influence of Turkish and Indian costume. You know what that means: turban time!<br />
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I started by looking for inspiration in fashion plates:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Nq4LMFLzFU/Ud4zO_IorPI/AAAAAAAABMo/Y4KTTaUaRp0/s1600/1797-turban.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Nq4LMFLzFU/Ud4zO_IorPI/AAAAAAAABMo/Y4KTTaUaRp0/s640/1797-turban.png" width="372" /></a></div>
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1797</div>
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This ensemble is exactly the silhouette I am aiming for. The eastern inspiration is visible not only in the turban-style headdress, but in the robe, which references traditional Turkish clothing. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r59YVIDz9ro/Ud4zO_kX0GI/AAAAAAAABMs/TDQykF7moFw/s1600/1797-yellow-robe.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r59YVIDz9ro/Ud4zO_kX0GI/AAAAAAAABMs/TDQykF7moFw/s640/1797-yellow-robe.png" width="380" /></a></div>
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1797</div>
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Here the eastern references are toned down a bit, but you can still see their influence. </div>
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Portraits from the period are also a great source of inspiration:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mXeURhUbe48/Ud43FypuVFI/AAAAAAAABNI/hn6GatSlv2U/s1600/Princess+Galitzin-1797+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mXeURhUbe48/Ud43FypuVFI/AAAAAAAABNI/hn6GatSlv2U/s640/Princess+Galitzin-1797+.jpg" width="476" /></a></div>
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1797 — <i>Princess Galitzin</i> by Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun </div>
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What fantastic plumage!</div>
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There are two options for making a turban headdress: you can wrap a scarf or length of fabric around your head, styling it anew every time you wear it, or you can make a fixed hat, where the drapery is secured to some kind of base. I chose the latter approach; we all know how stressful last-minute dressing can be, and wrapping a turban on top of carefully styled hair right before an event seemed just a little too risky to me. </div>
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Luckily, it was very easy to find good information on how to make a turban. Here are some of the websites that I found useful:</div>
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A series of articles from Lynn McMasters:</div>
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<a href="http://lynnmcmasters.com/Turbansecond.html">Wrapped Turbans</a></div>
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<a href="http://lynnmcmasters.com/Turban2.html">Turbans over Padded Tubes</a></div>
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<a href="http://lynnmcmasters.com/turbanonband.html">Fixed Turbans over Wired Bands</a></div>
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An article on the blog of the Oregon Regency Society:</div>
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<a href="http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/03/regency-ladys-turban.html">Regency Lady's Turban</a></div>
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Jenny Lafleur's project page for an <a href="http://www.jennylafleur.com/hats/turban.2008.001.htm">1810 Turban</a></div>
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I ended up using a hybrid of the techniques shown on these various pages. I started by making a small base cap out of a turquoise and gold shot dupioni silk that matches my Pemberley shoes:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gx2N4zItiE4/UeNW1bfTmTI/AAAAAAAABQU/PYEUOal8ilk/s1600/turban-base-cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gx2N4zItiE4/UeNW1bfTmTI/AAAAAAAABQU/PYEUOal8ilk/s640/turban-base-cap.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The cap is made from a circle about 14" in diameter gathered to a narrow bias band the circumference of my head. Since the gathers and band would be completely covered by the subsequent drapery, I was not overly particular about getting the gathers even, as you can see. </div>
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From there, I just started draping! I used more of the shot silk, cut on the bias into strips about 16" wide. I added some darker turquoise silk organza cut the same way, and a narrower bias strip of a pale lavender silk taffeta (leftover from another project that I will be sharing with you shortly). I didn't bother finishing the edges, but made sure the raw edges were concealed as I went along. I twisted the strips of fabric loosely around one another and draped them onto the base cap, pinning as I went. When I got it the way I wanted, I tacked the drapery into place with stitches. To finish it up, I wrapped a bit of gold braid around the lavender silk and accented the front with two ostrich plumes in a natural brown and deep dusty purple, two bleached and dyed peacock feathers in a beige color, and a gold button with crystals for a little sparkle. </div>
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The finished turban:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5k9yxFN7ALo/UeNZoP6mW_I/AAAAAAAABQk/wU2YygFmK2g/s1600/turban-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5k9yxFN7ALo/UeNZoP6mW_I/AAAAAAAABQk/wU2YygFmK2g/s640/turban-front.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Front </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXPJdRgZ6EE/UeNZoa6avVI/AAAAAAAABQo/3gcMttdtRKI/s1600/turban-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXPJdRgZ6EE/UeNZoa6avVI/AAAAAAAABQo/3gcMttdtRKI/s640/turban-back.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Back</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ILqN8jHqXhY/UeNZol658gI/AAAAAAAABQs/DYsDc3cfOpI/s1600/turban-front-side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ILqN8jHqXhY/UeNZol658gI/AAAAAAAABQs/DYsDc3cfOpI/s640/turban-front-side.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Side-front</div>
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The Challenge: #14 — Eastern Influence</div>
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Fabric: 2/3 yd turquoise/gold shot dupioni and 1/2 yd turquoise silk organza (these are the amounts I purchased — in the end I used much less); lavender silk taffeta (remnants from another project) </div>
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Pattern: improvised/draped</div>
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Year: late 1790s</div>
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Notions: two small ostrich plumes, two bleached and dyed peacock eyes, gold and crystal button, 1-1/2 yd dark gold metallic braid</div>
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How historically accurate is it? I have not seen any extant historical turbans of this type, so it's hard to say. It gives a very good approximation of the look shown in period fashion plates and portraits, and the materials and techniques are all plausible. </div>
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Hours to complete: 2-3</div>
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First worn: will be worn at Costume College 2013</div>
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Total cost: about $35</div>
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-51969383576130315452013-07-13T14:39:00.000-07:002013-07-13T14:39:31.547-07:00New 1860s CorsetWhen planning out my summer sewing, I decided right away that the HSF Challenge #13 — Lace and Lacing would be a perfect opportunity for me to make a new mid-19th century corset. You can see my current corset in <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/03/1830s-1840s-underpinnings.html">this post</a>. It has served me well for almost 3 years, but it is starting to show its age. I never loved the fit that much to begin with — it doesn't have quite enough flare for my rather curvy hips, and sort of smooshes my bust instead of supporting it. Several of the bones, particularly the ones in the sides and back, have permanent bends in them where my hips jut out below the waist. And now, after years of dancing and sweating in it, the bones and busk are starting to show signs of rust. Time to make a new one!<br />
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My old corset is made from shaped panels; I knew I wanted the new one to have gussets instead. Many costumers out there on the internet have suggested that gussets provide better shaping for us curvier ladies, and my limited experience with them suggests this is true. My <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/02/edwardian-corset.html">Edwardian corset </a>gets much of its shaping from gussets, and that thing is not only curvalicious, but also gives me a smaller waistline than any other corset I've made, by a full inch! </div>
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As for a pattern, I picked up <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1802-misses-costumes.aspx">Simplicity 2890</a> at a pattern sale a couple years ago, suspecting that it would be my next corset. It is a simple gusseted corset taken from a period pattern from 1867, and calls for single-layer construction, with flat-felled seams and minimal boning (only 6 bones aside from the ones at the back lacing and 4 short ones in the upper back). The corset has a fairly short and curvy shape, but I went ahead and added extra width to both of the bust gussets and the back hip gusset, just to be sure it would be curvy enough. I think I added about 1/2" to the curved side of each bust gusset (a total of 2" added to the bust circumference), and about 3/4" on each side of the back hip gusset (a total of 3" added to the hip circumference).<br />
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Aside from that, I did not alter the pattern at all, other than to change the rather odd method of boning that the pattern called for. I won't even try to explain what the pattern asked me to do with the boning, because I read it through once, didn't understand it, read it again, finally grasped what it meant, decided it was silly, and put the boning in the way I always do: bone casing tape applied from top to bottom along the placement lines. This straightforward approach meant that I needed bones that were on average 2" longer than what the pattern called for. Take note: if you decide to make this pattern, put it together first, decide whether you want to follow those silly instructions, and then buy your boning accordingly. </div>
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Enough talking, here's the corset: </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TAeEUGx75MQ/UeHESMEvvjI/AAAAAAAABQE/ySNMnGzIEco/s1600/1860s-corset-front-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TAeEUGx75MQ/UeHESMEvvjI/AAAAAAAABQE/ySNMnGzIEco/s640/1860s-corset-front-view.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Front view — I'm pretty happy with the shape and fit. The straight, tidy waist is particularly pleasing.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzJuHFyMur8/UeHEPuXSVHI/AAAAAAAABP0/wkyVJ4ezuNY/s1600/1860s-corset-closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RzJuHFyMur8/UeHEPuXSVHI/AAAAAAAABP0/wkyVJ4ezuNY/s640/1860s-corset-closeup.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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You can see a little more detail here. I'm hoping some of those wrinkles will smooth out as it stretches and forms to my body. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e1ru5zxFOh4/UeHEP8qiofI/AAAAAAAABP8/L0AQ4SozaQg/s1600/1860s-corset-side-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e1ru5zxFOh4/UeHEP8qiofI/AAAAAAAABP8/L0AQ4SozaQg/s640/1860s-corset-side-view.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The side view really shows how great the bust support is — a much more rounded, natural shape than my previous corset. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-crkD49FXszc/UeHEOav9JSI/AAAAAAAABPs/w3UK1lKMu18/s1600/1860s-corset-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-crkD49FXszc/UeHEOav9JSI/AAAAAAAABPs/w3UK1lKMu18/s640/1860s-corset-back.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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See how much curve this corset gives in the back hip area?</div>
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I'm very happy with it. It's comfortable and pretty, and the shape is much better than what I was getting with the old one. I can comfortably lace almost an inch smaller at the waist than I could in my old corset (though I probably won't since I have so many dresses made at the larger waist measurement). </div>
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The Challenge: #13 — Lace and Lacing<br />
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Fabric: White cotton coutil<br />
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Pattern: <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1802-misses-costumes.aspx">Simplicity 2890</a><br />
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Year: ca. 1867, but I will probably wear it for 1850s-1870s<br />
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Notions: 12" busk, 10 spiral steels, 4 white spring steels, 1/2" bone casing tape, 5 yd corset lacing, 5/8" twill tape for binding, size 00 grommets<br />
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How historically accurate is it? Aside from substituting steel boning for the whalebone that would have been used in the period, I would call this very accurate.<br />
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Hours to complete: maybe 7<br />
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First worn: will be worn at Costume College 2013<br />
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Total cost: The coutil was leftover from my Edwardian corset, so about $35 for the busk, bones, tapes, and lacing.</div>
Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-68884310151288499452013-07-11T08:36:00.000-07:002013-07-11T08:36:20.670-07:00Long Sleeves for Mrs. Bennet<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>Months after making my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/regency-muslin-dress.html">Regency muslin dress</a>, I went back and sewed a pair of long sleeves that can be attached to the dress for daywear, just like the ones that go with the dress from <i>Patterns of Fashion 2 </i>I used as a model<i>. </i>I sewed the sleeves back in May for a Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge, but couldn't very well post about them without posting about the dress first. So here is my very late entry for HSF Challenge #10 — Literature: a pair of long sleeves for Mrs. Bennet.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1JPt3mRkoGk/Ud7OMffXZRI/AAAAAAAABOI/AvJK5RCT5i8/s1600/muslin-dress-long-sleeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1JPt3mRkoGk/Ud7OMffXZRI/AAAAAAAABOI/AvJK5RCT5i8/s640/muslin-dress-long-sleeves.jpg" width="564" /></a></div>
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I don't have a picture of them with the dress yet — this will have to do!</div>
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Like pretty much every woman I've ever met, I'm a huge Jane Austen nut. I read <i>Pride and Prejudice</i> more often than I would care to admit, and am well on my way to knowing the whole book by heart. When I set out to make my long sleeves, my mind immediately jumped to one of the rare instances when Austen alludes to fashion in the book. It's such a minor reference that many people probably wouldn't notice it, but it tickles me every time I read it. Mrs. Bennet is complaining to her visiting sister about the disappointment of her daughter Elizabeth's recent refusal of an offer of marriage:<br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">“I do not blame Jane," she continued, "for Jane would have got Mr. Bingley if she could. But Lizzy! Oh, sister! It is very hard to think that she might have been Mr. Collins's wife by this time, had it not been for her own perverseness. He made her an offer in this very room, and she refused him. The consequence of it is, that Lady Lucas will have a daughter married before I have, and that the Longbourn estate is just as much entailed as ever. The Lucases are very artful people indeed, sister. They are all for what they can get. I am sorry to say it of them, but so it is. It makes me very nervous and poorly, to be thwarted so in my own family, and to have neighbours who think of themselves before anybody else. However, your coming just at this time is the greatest of comforts, and I am very glad to hear what you tell us, of long sleeves.”</span></blockquote>
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The abrupt transition at the end of the speech, Mrs. Bennet's ability to be comforted by something so trivial as the fashion for long sleeves, shows us that her nervous distress over her unmarried daughters is just as superficial as most of her other worries and complaints throughout the book. She is thoroughly vain and silly, without a serious thought in her head. Every time I wear these long sleeves, I will try to remember to be a little more grounded and sensible than Mrs. Bennet. Here are the details:<br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The Challenge: #10 — Literature</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Fabric: spotted white muslin</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Pattern: adapted from <i>Patterns of Fashion 2</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Year: the dress these were patterned from is dated </span>1798-1804</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Notions: white cotton thread</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">How historically accurate is it? Very accurate. The pattern was taken from an original garment, the fabric is very similar to original textiles, and they were sewn by hand. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Hours to complete: 2 hours</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">First worn: Will be worn to some unknown future Regency event</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Total cost: Cut from the leftover fabric from the dress, so a couple of dollars</span></div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-12398303602703719102013-07-11T08:32:00.002-07:002013-07-11T08:32:49.256-07:00Regency Muslin DressAs I continue to play catch-up on blogging about my recent sewing projects, let's take a look at my Regency muslin dress:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dzKuc_Nlkuw/UdCqIY62U1I/AAAAAAAABKQ/L4FlhbISo3o/s1600/muslin-dress-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dzKuc_Nlkuw/UdCqIY62U1I/AAAAAAAABKQ/L4FlhbISo3o/s640/muslin-dress-front.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Front </div>
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(Yes, that's my blue <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/03/late-1830s-ballgown.html">late 1830s ballgown</a> hanging in the back again. Anyone else have issues with costume storage?)</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5ik_r0ST9ak/UdCqILc9xGI/AAAAAAAABKM/fOaEXG8_PBU/s1600/muslin-dress-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5ik_r0ST9ak/UdCqILc9xGI/AAAAAAAABKM/fOaEXG8_PBU/s640/muslin-dress-back.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Back </div>
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I made this dress back in February/March to wear to a Jane Austen ball, but never got around to posting about it. As I mentioned in <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/02/regency-dress-planning.html">my planning post</a>, I based my dress on the <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">1798-1804 Morning Dress in <i>Patterns of Fashion 2.</i> When I scaled up the pattern, I found that the original dress was made for a tiny person, so I had to add quite a lot to every piece of the bodice to get it to fit me. </span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Here you can see my pattern pieces with the tiny original pattern pieces on top (note that my pieces have seam allowance added, the original pieces do not):</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJCHyb78sQs/Ud7MTYv3JnI/AAAAAAAABN8/RK3NUZf0HGg/s1600/muslin-dress-pattern-pieces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJCHyb78sQs/Ud7MTYv3JnI/AAAAAAAABN8/RK3NUZf0HGg/s640/muslin-dress-pattern-pieces.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see I had to enlarge the pieces quite a bit!</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">My fabric is a spotted muslin from Britex Fabrics. The bodice is lined with the same medium-weight linen I used for my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/regency-shift.html">Regency shift</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I knew from the beginning that I would sew my dress completely by hand. My feeling was that the lightness and delicacy of the original muslin dresses could not be captured with machine sewing. Besides, I wanted to learn about the construction of garments from this period, and the particular way the seams are sewn would have been impossible by machine. I gleaned as much as I could from my costume books, and relied heavily on the various sewing techniques shared by Katherine at <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/">The Fashionable Past</a>. In the end, it didn't take as long as I thought it would, it was very pleasant sewing, and the results were just as I hoped. I think I'll stick with hand-sewing for all my future Regency projects. </span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I wore the dress over my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/regency-shift.html">shift</a> and <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/corded-stays-part-two.html">stays</a>, along with a bodiced petticoat that I don't have photos of yet. I also wore my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/02/painted-pemberleys.html">Pemberley shoes</a>, a matching vintage taffeta ribbon as a sash, and some coordinating costume jewelry. </span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Here it is in action:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X2ix1jv0D3U/Ud7IgZWsv0I/AAAAAAAABNY/A5Ly0noiX1s/s1600/Muslin-dress-dancing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X2ix1jv0D3U/Ud7IgZWsv0I/AAAAAAAABNY/A5Ly0noiX1s/s640/Muslin-dress-dancing.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Photo courtesy of Kim Yasuda (you can see more of her pictures from the evening <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7181690@N03/sets/72157632902743219/">here</a>)</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The dress was comfortable and easy to wear, though getting into it was not as simple as I had hoped. Pinning the bib in place was a real challenge, especially trying to keep the pins from showing on the outside. There was an aesthetic issue with the bib as well: the thin, sheer fabric, while very delicate and pretty, allowed every wrinkle and seam from my underpinnings to show through in the tight bust area. Was this just part of the look in the period, or should I re-make the bib in some way to give it more opacity? I am thinking some fullness and gathers would help a little. </span><br />
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Also, the dress needs to be shortened before I try dancing in it again. It just grazes the floor when I move, which is very pretty, but not very convenient on a modern dance floor. At the ball, while I was being escorted off the floor after a dance, someone following too close behind me trod on my hem and pulled most of those tight gathers out of the back of my skirt! Luckily a kind stranger was able to pin me back together in the dressing room, but I learned my lesson. I think hacking off an inch or so will prevent that problem from occurring again.</span><br />
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-49062552127391906302013-06-30T17:28:00.000-07:002013-06-30T17:28:24.742-07:00Clara the Barmaid Bustle DressI've been a very bad blogger! I haven't blogged at all in almost two months, and there are things I made months ago that I still haven't shared here. My only excuse is that I've gone from one big project to the next, and just haven't had time to stay on top of the blog. Sorry! The next few posts will be me playing catch-up.<br />
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First up, my Clara bustle dress:<br />
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Last month, I made my reproduction of the Victorian barmaid costume worn by Clara in last year's Doctor Who Christmas special (read more about the planning <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/05/clara-dress-planning.html">here</a>). I threw it together in record time (about 2 weeks), and wore it to a Who-themed PEERS dance at the beginning of June. The ball was a huge success — it brought out a mix of swing dancers, fans of the show, and PEERS regulars that packed the venue, making dancing a bit difficult at times. Even though the dance floor was crowded, it was great fun. I danced with the Fourth, Fifth, Tenth, and Eleventh doctors, crossed my own timeline a few times, narrowly avoided some Daleks and weeping angels, and waltzed to a swing version of the show's theme music.<br />
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I am thrilled with how my costume turned out, though sadly, not very many people knew who I was. There were a couple of people who got it instantly, and quite a few who remembered with a little prompting, but I'm sure a lot of folks must have thought I had missed the memo about the theme and showed up in a generic Victorian showgirl-type costume. Nevertheless, even those people admired it, and the good thing about it being a bit generic is that I can wear it for other events in the future.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">As a reminder of what I was copying, here is Clara's dress from the show:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXecMzIqVrw/UYb6qv1OveI/AAAAAAAABIQ/J62adaW-JUg/s640/clara-red-dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXecMzIqVrw/UYb6qv1OveI/AAAAAAAABIQ/J62adaW-JUg/s640/clara-red-dress.jpg" width="404" /></a></div>
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And here's my version:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xKlA30Fqsns/UdDFmdpujaI/AAAAAAAABKs/8gee5NsLtjM/s1600/Clara-barmaid-dress-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xKlA30Fqsns/UdDFmdpujaI/AAAAAAAABKs/8gee5NsLtjM/s640/Clara-barmaid-dress-1.jpg" width="422" /></a></div>
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Not bad, eh?</div>
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The skirt and overskirt are based on the 1886-87 skirt from <i>Period Costume for Stage and Screen </i>(pg 126-7). I shortened both layers a bit, and added three rows of ruffles to the skirt. The bodice is the <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=73&cat=5&page=1">TV460 1885 Cuirass Bodice</a>. I used the square evening neckline, but with the 3/4 length coat sleeves.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4_mLTK85WQ4/UdDFmrgvpVI/AAAAAAAABK4/WJbD3KCYmhY/s1600/Clara-barmaid-dress-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4_mLTK85WQ4/UdDFmrgvpVI/AAAAAAAABK4/WJbD3KCYmhY/s640/Clara-barmaid-dress-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I used a red Kona cotton as the base for the skirt, with the outer skirt layer made from a black/red cross-dyed cotton. The ruffles were cut on the straight of the grain and fringed along the bottom edge, which is how they appear to be finished on the original costume. The top ruffle is accented with a ruche of the overskirt fabric.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQ6kQnHJz3Y/UdDFnB-0ycI/AAAAAAAABLA/4tgkOQley18/s1600/Clara-barmaid-dress-skirt-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQ6kQnHJz3Y/UdDFnB-0ycI/AAAAAAAABLA/4tgkOQley18/s640/Clara-barmaid-dress-skirt-detail.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The overskirt and bodice were made from an iridescent, embroidered polyester curtain fabric. Unfortunately, it was the only thing I could find to approximate the brocade used for Clara's costume on the show. It was an unpleasant reminder of why I never sew with synthetics — it was a pain to sew and press, and made me very hot and sweaty while dancing. It was a necessary compromise, however, and all things considered, looked pretty fabulous.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Flvi1WPfHM4/UdDFmma8YPI/AAAAAAAABK8/jAvyBe-SozA/s1600/Clara-barmaid-dress-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Flvi1WPfHM4/UdDFmma8YPI/AAAAAAAABK8/jAvyBe-SozA/s640/Clara-barmaid-dress-back.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I trimmed the neckline and sleeves with a dark red lace trim, and used black vintage glass buttons along the center front opening.<br />
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I had intended to knit a screen-accurate shawl to go with the dress, but I got about two-thirds of the way through the knitting, when my right wrist gave out. It hurt so severely that I had to give it up and do without. In fact, over a month later, it is still giving me problems. No more knitting for me! Luckily, I found a second-hand chenille knitted scarf in a similar color that was close enough. It ended up not mattering much, because the dance was too hot and crowded to wear a shawl anyway. I left the chenille scarf in the dressing room for most of the night.<br />
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My <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/tavistock-victorian-button-boot">American Duchess Tavistocks</a>, while not exactly screen accurate, looked great with the dress and were surprisingly comfortable to dance in.<br />
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Altogether, I think this dress was a success. I'll keep it in the closet in case I ever need to attend an event as an 1880s saloon girl!<br />
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-44599720087676323972013-05-05T17:52:00.001-07:002013-05-05T17:52:24.326-07:00Clara Dress PlanningSo I have a confession: I'm a big fan of <i>Doctor Who. </i>I got started on it a couple of years ago by a friend, and now I'm hooked. I love it for all its cheesy plotlines, silly special effects, and all-around campy goodness. The characters are surprisingly well-developed and it appeals to my general anglophilia.<br />
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Imagine my delight when I found out that PEERS is hosting <i>Doctor Who</i>-themed ball this summer: <a href="http://www.peersdance.org/doctor.html">The Doctor Dances</a>. The ball is set in London in 1941, so either 1940s dress or <i>Doctor Who</i> inspired clothing is appropriate. At first I wasn't certain which direction I would go in, but after viewing the Christmas special in December, I had a clear vision: I would make one of the 1880s dresses worn by Clara, the Doctor's new companion, in <i>The Snowmen</i>. 1940s is not an era I have any experience in, so something Victorian would be more my speed.<br />
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At first I thought I would make the beautiful and formal day dress she wears through most of the episode, when she is working as a governess to two children:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qMDKv7xMYHY/UYb5zASE8yI/AAAAAAAABIE/KieOQLQAxtI/s1600/Clara-and-Franny.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="504" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qMDKv7xMYHY/UYb5zASE8yI/AAAAAAAABIE/KieOQLQAxtI/s640/Clara-and-Franny.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Clara on the left — I love this dress. It's elegant and graceful, and rather historically accurate for a popular TV show!</div>
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The more I thought about it, however, the more I was worried about dancing in this dress. The long sleeves and high neck don't allow for ventilation, and the whole thing feels a bit too buttoned-up for a ballroom. Luckily, this isn't the only dress Clara wears in this episode. In the beginning of the show, she moonlights as a barmaid in this spicy red number: </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXecMzIqVrw/UYb6qv1OveI/AAAAAAAABIM/4U04puOTn5c/s1600/clara-red-dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXecMzIqVrw/UYb6qv1OveI/AAAAAAAABIM/4U04puOTn5c/s640/clara-red-dress.jpg" width="404" /></a></div>
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Much more suitable for dancing, no? Lower neck, shorter sleeves, and though you can't tell in this picture, the hem sits about 6" off the ground. Perfect for swirling about in a ballroom!<br />
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The dress appears to be 4 separate components: the scarlet brocade bodice, a matching draped overskirt, a dark reddish-brown ruffled base skirt, and a red underskirt. I plan on using TV460 1885 Cuirass Bodice as my pattern for the bodice, and an assortment of diagrams in books for the skirts. I'm also knitting the shawl (there's a minor plot point involving it — it would be a shame to leave it out), and I'll wear my new <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/tavistock-victorian-button-boot">American Duchess Tavistock</a> button boots with the ensemble.<br />
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This is my first time attempting a close replica of an existing costume or gown. I'm already enjoying the process immensely. I've been researching and planning for several weeks, and I've managed to find all the necessary materials The sewing should be quick and easy — I'll post again soon once I've made some progress!<br />
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-81810599419898463612013-05-01T17:13:00.000-07:002013-05-01T17:13:06.435-07:00Gibson Girl Gown — Complete!And now, the moment you've all been waiting for... the finished dress!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dxtWG4OJBtQ/UYGX9OAw_SI/AAAAAAAABGc/zW_r9ApSYNM/s1600/Gibson-Girl-Gown-Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dxtWG4OJBtQ/UYGX9OAw_SI/AAAAAAAABGc/zW_r9ApSYNM/s640/Gibson-Girl-Gown-Front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Front</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vMNlwuA3NCo/UYGX7VOn2MI/AAAAAAAABGU/4LYBk9fF-yQ/s1600/Gibson-Girl-Gown-Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vMNlwuA3NCo/UYGX7VOn2MI/AAAAAAAABGU/4LYBk9fF-yQ/s640/Gibson-Girl-Gown-Back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2fPskuHKdvw/UYGX_jvbFTI/AAAAAAAABG0/UVkXvqLvTCM/s1600/Gibson-gown-closeup.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2fPskuHKdvw/UYGX_jvbFTI/AAAAAAAABG0/UVkXvqLvTCM/s640/Gibson-gown-closeup.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Bodice Closeup</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FvU4eg70vcw/UYGX481KjnI/AAAAAAAABGE/33pdo_KgBE4/s1600/Bodice-detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FvU4eg70vcw/UYGX481KjnI/AAAAAAAABGE/33pdo_KgBE4/s640/Bodice-detail.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Details</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yi2VFnoOGl0/UYGYDBKkp4I/AAAAAAAABHM/8Ercgm6s7eU/s1600/Shoulder-detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yi2VFnoOGl0/UYGYDBKkp4I/AAAAAAAABHM/8Ercgm6s7eU/s640/Shoulder-detail.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The shoulders — my favorite part of the dress</div>
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It's a shame the colors are so washed out in all these pictures, but I figured you would rather see the dress on me in a beautiful ballroom than on a dressform in my messy living room. </div>
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Since you last saw the skirt, I added oodles of trimming. For the bottom flounce, I used a doubled piece of pink chiffon. I decided to make the flounce double width, then fold it in half, gathering the two edges and stitching them down as one. This approach had two advantages: I didn't have to hem yards and yards of silk chiffon, and the flounce was then more opaque. Easier and prettier at the same time!</div>
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I added a row of the beaded trim to cover the raw edges of the chiffon. I still had a bunch of the trim left over, so I decided to arrange the rest in a sort of branching cascade down the left front of the skirt. I then accented the whole thing with more roses made with the pink silk. </div>
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Lastly I added a belt of black velvet to the bodice, in order to provide a bit more definition to the waist. </div>
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The dress was very well received at the ball, and was a joy to dance in. The short length made it easy to move in, it didn't take up as much space on the dance floor as the mid-19th century dresses I usually wear, and the sleeveless design gave me much more range of motion than I am used to having in Victorian fashions. </div>
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The group of ladies who inspired this project, my lovely Gibson Girls, all did a wonderful job with their dresses as well. We all had a great time! Here are a few pictures of the group:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xzswfid-ayc/UYGX_OBu2iI/AAAAAAAABGs/YAX-RKx8i5c/s1600/Gibson-Girls.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xzswfid-ayc/UYGX_OBu2iI/AAAAAAAABGs/YAX-RKx8i5c/s640/Gibson-Girls.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Quite a variety of colors and styles</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-je0VeinSwiE/UYGX99PiJ1I/AAAAAAAABGk/6sXEEoALV94/s1600/Gibson-Girls-Petticoats.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-je0VeinSwiE/UYGX99PiJ1I/AAAAAAAABGk/6sXEEoALV94/s640/Gibson-Girls-Petticoats.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Showing off our shoes and petticoats</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hVtBS8jANAE/UYGX6NHVHUI/AAAAAAAABGM/9UASev345j0/s1600/Fluffy-sleeves.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hVtBS8jANAE/UYGX6NHVHUI/AAAAAAAABGM/9UASev345j0/s640/Fluffy-sleeves.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Three ladies who chose a slightly earlier silhouette: Jenny, Elizabeth, and Christine look fabulous with their floofy sleeves!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d8fqcG3Z2ek/UYGYFK6nmRI/AAAAAAAABHc/QzOY1BetzHs/s1600/Vivien.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d8fqcG3Z2ek/UYGYFK6nmRI/AAAAAAAABHc/QzOY1BetzHs/s640/Vivien.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Vivien's trained dress was a show-stopper.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0vs2MbP_eY0/UYGYF9XdD3I/AAAAAAAABHk/8dOSTVw-BrA/s1600/Viviens-train.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0vs2MbP_eY0/UYGYF9XdD3I/AAAAAAAABHk/8dOSTVw-BrA/s640/Viviens-train.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I love the silhouette from behind! (Read more about it on <a href="http://freshfrippery.com/category/gibson-girl-2/">her blog</a>.)</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxFLdfdrz2c/UYGX4IB1-nI/AAAAAAAABF8/Pf2MB6MZx0w/s1600/A-Story-by-a-Sleeve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxFLdfdrz2c/UYGX4IB1-nI/AAAAAAAABF8/Pf2MB6MZx0w/s640/A-Story-by-a-Sleeve.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This was my favorite moment of the night: Jenny and Gregory recreated a charming drawing by Charles Dana Gibson.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hc8HEXb6f7w/UYGeg_zY_XI/AAAAAAAABH0/sR6DqNW7jAA/s1600/A-Little-Story-By-a-Sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="450" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hc8HEXb6f7w/UYGeg_zY_XI/AAAAAAAABH0/sR6DqNW7jAA/s640/A-Little-Story-By-a-Sleeve.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tells quite a story, doesn't it?</div>
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Another great victory of the night was my hairdo. After several rounds of trial-and-error, I figured out how to wrangle my fine, wispy hair into some semblance of a Gibson pouf. It took a lot of teasing, quite a pile of pins, and more than a few rats, but the results were better than I expected. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vz7KKYN3EVg/UYGYCXBXUiI/AAAAAAAABHE/aEdrrtd7NOk/s1600/Hair-before.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vz7KKYN3EVg/UYGYCXBXUiI/AAAAAAAABHE/aEdrrtd7NOk/s640/Hair-before.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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The completed hairdo before the ball...</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IHgFmny4UQc/UYGYBWY1F6I/AAAAAAAABG8/YphgWMnRZcM/s1600/Hair-after.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IHgFmny4UQc/UYGYBWY1F6I/AAAAAAAABG8/YphgWMnRZcM/s640/Hair-after.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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...and the tangled, messy aftermath! </div>
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Here's a bonus: the decision to cover the dress in all those pink roses meant that this could become my entry for the next challenge in the Historical Sew Fortnightly! Here are the details:</div>
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The Challenge: #9 — Flora and Fauna (This is certainly the most floral dress I've ever made — 37 blooms from top to bottom!)</div>
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Fabric: Blue-green silk taffeta for the dress; pink chiffon, rosy pink silk taffeta, and black rayon velvet for trim; and pink acetate taffeta for the lining</div>
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Pattern: 1898 bodice from <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Period-Costume-Stage-Screen-1800-1909/dp/088734609X/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y">Period Costume for Stage and Screen</a> </i>as the base for my bodice, everything else was draped on the dressform</div>
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Year: ca. 1900</div>
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Notions: tarlatan for the hem, seam binding to finish the bodice inside, steel boning, petersham for waist stay, hooks and eyes, snaps, purchased beaded trim</div>
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How historically accurate is it? Fairly. It was inspired by period dresses in museum collections as well as period fashion illustrations. My techniques were based on period examples and period dressmaking manuals. My materials were pretty good (I used acetate taffeta for the lining where it should have been silk, and my velvet was a rayon blend). I used a purchased beaded trim instead of lavishly embroidering the dress as Worth would have done, because I am not crazy. Even with a few shortcuts, the majority of the sewing was done by hand, as it would have been done in the period. I would say 8 of 10. </div>
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Hours to complete: I didn't keep track but my best guess would be upwards of 40.</div>
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First worn: to the <a href="http://gaskellball.com/">Gaskell Ball </a>on April 27, 2013</div>
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Total cost: I didn't keep track of this either, but my guess would be about $250. I overbought on most of my fabrics, meaning I have lots of leftovers that will be used for future projects. </div>
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I'm very happy with how this dress turned out, but I'm even happier to be finished with it. Now I can move on to my next project, which will be something completely different... Details to follow!<br />
<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-538424534894605142013-05-01T08:32:00.000-07:002013-05-01T08:32:54.497-07:00Bodice DraperyTime for some much-delayed updates on the Gibson Dress. For those of you who don't know, I finished it and wore it last weekend. It turned out just the way I wanted it, and it was very fun to wear.<br />
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Before I show you the finished pictures though, let's talk a little bit about the bodice. Last time I wrote about the bodice, I had completed the lining/base:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--aQB4Rzcl-Q/UWOWlPbojUI/AAAAAAAABCE/xI7c1AoQSFg/s1600/bodice-lining.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--aQB4Rzcl-Q/UWOWlPbojUI/AAAAAAAABCE/xI7c1AoQSFg/s640/bodice-lining.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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From this point, everything was draped on the dressform and sewn in place by hand.<br />
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I started by draping my blue silk on the bodice base to determine its final placement. I marked the outline of the area it would cover, tracing the area that would be exposed at the neckline, then removed the fabric from the bodice base. I then carefully filled in the neckline area with bias pieces of pink chiffon, pleating it gently and tacking it into place.<br />
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Here's a photo of what the bodice neckline looked like after this step:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kf8KIxFRV4s/UYEyqxT69WI/AAAAAAAABFE/hOUdWussAPs/s1600/pink-chiffon-front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kf8KIxFRV4s/UYEyqxT69WI/AAAAAAAABFE/hOUdWussAPs/s640/pink-chiffon-front.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I repeated the same process for the bodice back:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VnRA8VB8HiM/UYEyqBInEqI/AAAAAAAABE8/6Hn5bfRNZHc/s1600/pink-chiffon-back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VnRA8VB8HiM/UYEyqBInEqI/AAAAAAAABE8/6Hn5bfRNZHc/s640/pink-chiffon-back.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, I sewed bias-cut strips of black velvet onto the straps, pleating them slightly to add texture over the shoulder. <br />
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Here's a photo of what they ended up looking like in the back (the picture I took from the front turned out very blurry):<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mTMnyAXcT54/UYEyrk_KksI/AAAAAAAABFU/-Qjhe0GAXYw/s1600/shoulder-straps-back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mTMnyAXcT54/UYEyrk_KksI/AAAAAAAABFU/-Qjhe0GAXYw/s640/shoulder-straps-back.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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From here, I was so absorbed in what I was doing that I forgot to take step-by-step progress photos. Sorry!!<br />
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I pressed all the blue silk bodice pieces, then draped them into the bodice base starting with the back. I smoothed the back piece over the base while it was on the dress form, pinning it carefully around the edges. I then basted it in place at the side seams and wrapped the bottom edge inside the bodice base, basting it in place as well. I left the top edge pinned until I attached the beaded trimming, then sewed the trim down through all the bodice layers. Here is how the back turned out:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s7QS4HyCdv0/UYEypGDM-WI/AAAAAAAABEs/34WsufPlnbE/s1600/blue-silk-back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s7QS4HyCdv0/UYEypGDM-WI/AAAAAAAABEs/34WsufPlnbE/s640/blue-silk-back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I repeated a similar process for the left side of the bodice, except that I folded the edge under at the side seam, and slip-stitched it down over the basting stitches on the bodice back. I turned the center front edge under and whip-stitched it to the front edge of the bodice base, then turned in the bottom edge, basting it inside the bodice base. <br />
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The right front was draped in a similar fashion, but instead of attaching it at center front, I left it loose to continue across the body. I pleated this drapery so that it would fall in gentle folds across the lower bodice area, ending at the left side seam. I finished the bottom edge of this drapery piece by interlining it with a bias strip of tarlatan, folding up the bottom edge of the silk, and catch-stitching it to the tarlatan. I folded under the end of the drapery and stitched it neatly in place. It closes at the side seam with hooks and thread bars. <br />
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Once all the drapery was in place, I sewed a band of my beaded trimming along the top edge of the right side drape, from the top corner just underneath the velvet strap, all the way to the left side seam. <br />
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At this point I started adding some of the roses I made out of my dusty pink silk to the left shoulder area. Here's the front at this point:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPz84Y5o2W0/UYEypsFazqI/AAAAAAAABE0/jb27j0I1-70/s1600/blue-silk-front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPz84Y5o2W0/UYEypsFazqI/AAAAAAAABE0/jb27j0I1-70/s640/blue-silk-front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Lastly, I added some little drapey pieces of the pink chiffon to the shoulders, then put on a few more roses for good measure. </div>
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The completed bodice:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WT5J1isWDQU/UYEysZXOoWI/AAAAAAAABFk/tf5WBJHWgJA/s1600/with-shoulder-swags-front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WT5J1isWDQU/UYEysZXOoWI/AAAAAAAABFk/tf5WBJHWgJA/s640/with-shoulder-swags-front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtkwaIXwk9Y/UYEyrCTpQBI/AAAAAAAABFM/9zXSWA_yAAY/s1600/roses-detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtkwaIXwk9Y/UYEyrCTpQBI/AAAAAAAABFM/9zXSWA_yAAY/s640/roses-detail.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ppQM1XDDK_c/UYEysiB6JoI/AAAAAAAABFs/fTkkJECO7_o/s1600/with-shoulder-swags.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ppQM1XDDK_c/UYEysiB6JoI/AAAAAAAABFs/fTkkJECO7_o/s640/with-shoulder-swags.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Next up, the skirt trimming and the finished dress!!</div>
<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-31304835423440627852013-04-23T21:01:00.001-07:002013-04-24T07:47:44.987-07:00Regency HatA little late in posting, I present to you my submission for <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/the-hsf-challenge-8-by-the-sea/">HSF Challenge #8: By the Sea</a>. I'm so caught up in finishing my Gibson Girl evening gown for this weekend that I've had very little time for other sewing. I struggled to come up with something that would meet the requirements of the challenge, but not take up too much of my valuable sewing time. Then I had a sudden inspiration: the silk I am using for the dress is a lovely blue-green that reminds me of the sea. I have plenty of extra fabric, so I decided to use some of it for a quick and easy seaside project.<br />
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I happened to read this <a href="http://austenprose.com/2010/03/19/by-the-seaside-with-sanditon-guest-blog-with-mandy-n-on-regency-era-seaside-fashions/">lovely blog post</a> on Austenprose after following a link posted to the HSF Facebook group, and decided that a Regency era hat would be just the thing. Fashionable headgear would have been <i>de rigeur </i>for any lady visiting a watering place such as Brighton. What else would she wear while strolling along the shore? Something jaunty and a bit sporty would suit the seaside mood perfectly. </div>
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In my internet-surfing search for inspiration, I came upon <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/capote.html">this post</a> by Catherine at Koshka the Cat detailing the construction of her adorable red silk capote. Scrounging about in my stash, I procured all the other necessary materials, then whipped up my own version. </div>
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Without further ado, here it is, my sea-blue promenade capote:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_6AkDUhPrWE/UXdUq02FAwI/AAAAAAAABEU/o8YcAUbwepo/s1600/regency-hat-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_6AkDUhPrWE/UXdUq02FAwI/AAAAAAAABEU/o8YcAUbwepo/s640/regency-hat-1.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4mh3IT2GLdg/UXdUq71hHJI/AAAAAAAABEM/JWqb6nLYUVk/s1600/regency-hat-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4mh3IT2GLdg/UXdUq71hHJI/AAAAAAAABEM/JWqb6nLYUVk/s640/regency-hat-2.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bxZWMYcM3Yg/UXdUq_cIOgI/AAAAAAAABEQ/MFMzdCw7cwY/s1600/regency-hat-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bxZWMYcM3Yg/UXdUq_cIOgI/AAAAAAAABEQ/MFMzdCw7cwY/s640/regency-hat-3.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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The details:</div>
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The Challenge: #8 — By the Sea</div>
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Fabric: Blue-green silk taffeta leftover from my Gibson Girl dress</div>
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Pattern: <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/capote.html">This wonderful tutorial from Koshka the Cat</a></div>
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Year: 1790s-1810s</div>
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Notions: buckram, millinery wire, and cotton flannel interlining for brim; tarlatan interlining and cotton voile lining for crown; beautiful vintage ribbon, white and sheer with pale seafoam picot edge</div>
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How historically accurate is it? I must confess, I have not done extensive research for this project, so I cannot attest to its accuracy. I trust Catherine's accuracy standards, and Timely Tresses sells a pattern for a very similar hat, and I trust their research standards as well. My best guess is that this is fairly accurate. </div>
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Hours to complete: 6 hours</div>
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First worn: Will be worn to some unknown, hopefully seaside, future Regency event</div>
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Total cost: I spent about $20 on the ribbon, everything else came from my stash</div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-48052920542297111192013-04-22T08:31:00.000-07:002013-04-22T08:37:57.891-07:00Gibson Girl SkirtI finished the basic construction of the skirt for my Gibson Girl gown about two weeks ago, but I didn't get around to photographing it until today. Here it is in its un-trimmed state:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nWgHeEDQfzw/UXVUMvndbQI/AAAAAAAABCw/VdKVChxHgN8/s1600/skirt-front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nWgHeEDQfzw/UXVUMvndbQI/AAAAAAAABCw/VdKVChxHgN8/s640/skirt-front.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Front </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DPt7PGqBwWw/UXVUNPZqsAI/AAAAAAAABDA/p5zlVd34FQE/s1600/skirt-side-back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DPt7PGqBwWw/UXVUNPZqsAI/AAAAAAAABDA/p5zlVd34FQE/s640/skirt-side-back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Side-back </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YVUOxRboZ_o/UXVUL9y-JNI/AAAAAAAABCk/EBhJPUcVizk/s1600/skirt-back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YVUOxRboZ_o/UXVUL9y-JNI/AAAAAAAABCk/EBhJPUcVizk/s640/skirt-back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Back </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9qIbdgL2H9k/UXVUME8nyMI/AAAAAAAABDQ/LRalKxQ3cao/s1600/skirt-flat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="516" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9qIbdgL2H9k/UXVUME8nyMI/AAAAAAAABDQ/LRalKxQ3cao/s640/skirt-flat.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Laid flat — this shows how simple the shape of the skirt is. The only seam is at center back (top straight edge in this photo). Additional shaping is provided by one small dart on each side of the waist. </div>
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Construction details:<br />
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First I made the foundation skirt, a free-hanging lining attached to the outside skirt only at the placket and waistband. It serves as a petticoat, providing shape and structure for the fullness of the skirt. I cut the foundation on the same pattern as my skirt, but made it about 1-1/2" shorter. As seen above, it is a partial circle skirt, cut so that the majority of the fullness falls in the back. Since the hemline is very curved, I used a 4" bias facing as a hem. I followed period examples and interlined the hem with a bias strip of tarlatan, a lightweight, open-weave cotton that is heavily sized. It is light but firm, and when cut on the bias, behaves much like modern horsehair braid, providing structure and body without stiffness or weight. I added a dust ruffle inside the skirt, to help the bottom stand out from the legs while wearing it. The ruffle is about 6" deep, pinked on both edges, and gathered over a thin cotton cord. <br />
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The outside skirt is cut to "dancing length", just skimming the tops of my feet. It is hemmed the same way as the foundation skirt, with a 3" bias facing (without interlining, however). <br />
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Here are detail shots of the hems:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KkZ4f-JzEOg/UXVV4YqGKHI/AAAAAAAABDk/AX_txzpuOvo/s1600/dust-ruffle.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KkZ4f-JzEOg/UXVV4YqGKHI/AAAAAAAABDk/AX_txzpuOvo/s640/dust-ruffle.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lining dust ruffle</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r1gicBEewHY/UXVV4SPWSlI/AAAAAAAABDg/ccgpN-W5NDw/s1600/lining-hem.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r1gicBEewHY/UXVV4SPWSlI/AAAAAAAABDg/ccgpN-W5NDw/s640/lining-hem.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lining hem</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TTyoR5QwF-w/UXVV4qaZMmI/AAAAAAAABDw/BSWqAoTQK18/s1600/skirt-hem.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TTyoR5QwF-w/UXVV4qaZMmI/AAAAAAAABDw/BSWqAoTQK18/s640/skirt-hem.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Skirt hem</div>
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The skirt and foundation are joined at the placket, which consists of a 1" underlap of the outside fabric. The placket closes with snaps, which began to be used during this period. Since there is no pleating or fullness in the skirt where the placket is, I thought snaps would be best for keeping the opening concealed. Both skirt layers are attached to a 3/4" wide waistband made from the blue silk. The waistband closes with two hooks and eyes. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xqGedMaaHOo/UXVV4jRuD1I/AAAAAAAABD8/IdmG7L_b-AU/s1600/skirt-placket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xqGedMaaHOo/UXVV4jRuD1I/AAAAAAAABD8/IdmG7L_b-AU/s640/skirt-placket.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Skirt placket and waistband</div>
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Now the skirt just needs trimming! I will be adding a deep chiffon flounce, a band of beaded trimming, and some accents made from a deep pink silk. <br />
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The bodice for the dress is nearly finished as well. More details on that coming up soon!<br />
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-51368700778024549552013-04-08T21:23:00.000-07:002013-04-08T21:28:25.521-07:00Gibson Girl Bodice BaseIt's time for a progress update on my Gibson Girl gown. I finished the bodice base about a week ago. It took forever! Sewing the bodice was quick and easy since I was good and made a proper mockup to adjust all the fitting issues beforehand, but I spent several days just on the finishing.<br />
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First I trimmed, clipped, and scalloped all the seam allowances. Then, I overcast them all by hand. I sewed boning casings to each seam, again by hand. To ensure that the bodice sits smoothly over the boning, I followed a process described in period dressmaking manuals. As I stitched the casings down to the seam allowances, I left extra ease in the tape for a few inches in either side of the waistline, where the body has the most inward curve. Then, when I inserted the boning, I stretched the bodice lengthwise, causing the boning to bow in slightly. If you don't follow this process, the bodice may crinkle slightly at the waist when worn. It is a simple but ingenious way to ensure a smooth fit. <br />
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Next, I finished the neckline with a cotton ribbon as a facing and ran a narrow ribbon through it to use as a drawstring to draw up the neckline as needed. I then applied bias facings to the armscyes and to the bottom edge, which I interlined with a bias strip of tarlatan to give it structure. Lastly, I made a waist stay out of petersham and tacked it onto the back seam allowances. I sewed the bodice seams by machine, but after that every step of the process was completed by hand. The only shortcut I took was to use hook-and-eye tape for the bodice closure, instead of sewing on individual hooks and eyes. It's not the prettiest finish, but at least I was able to use my machine!<br />
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Here's the completed bodice base:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--aQB4Rzcl-Q/UWOWlPbojUI/AAAAAAAABB4/0OpvOOgO9vE/s1600/bodice-lining.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--aQB4Rzcl-Q/UWOWlPbojUI/AAAAAAAABB4/0OpvOOgO9vE/s640/bodice-lining.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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On the dressform</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-63lR4yMT0fo/UWOWkemtSII/AAAAAAAABBk/s2IKL4soMuk/s1600/bodice-lining-back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-63lR4yMT0fo/UWOWkemtSII/AAAAAAAABBk/s2IKL4soMuk/s640/bodice-lining-back.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Back view</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nBva5vp8Ph0/UWOWkQpUbVI/AAAAAAAABCQ/s13JFgJSLhk/s1600/bodice-lining-flat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nBva5vp8Ph0/UWOWkQpUbVI/AAAAAAAABCQ/s13JFgJSLhk/s640/bodice-lining-flat.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Laid flat</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-awdtk2kvcqc/UWOWk55pxEI/AAAAAAAABCI/ZGrFoH2NPhk/s1600/bodice-lining-inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-awdtk2kvcqc/UWOWk55pxEI/AAAAAAAABCI/ZGrFoH2NPhk/s640/bodice-lining-inside.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Inside </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ARrsz59xFXA/UWOWkRYH77I/AAAAAAAABB0/nYYewraB8QU/s1600/armhole-facing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ARrsz59xFXA/UWOWkRYH77I/AAAAAAAABB0/nYYewraB8QU/s640/armhole-facing.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Armhole facing</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9uwIFw952c/UWOWld7i0lI/AAAAAAAABCM/OyMeXPGw7LY/s1600/bottom-facing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9uwIFw952c/UWOWld7i0lI/AAAAAAAABCM/OyMeXPGw7LY/s640/bottom-facing.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Bottom Edge</div>
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Pretty soon I can start working on the parts people will actually see!!<br />
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I have made a lot of progress on the skirts (yes, there are two). As soon as the outer skirt hem is finished, I'll post some pictures. <br />
<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-59070173930400022362013-04-08T20:54:00.001-07:002013-04-24T07:47:59.124-07:00Gibson Girl Hair AccessoryFor Challenge #7 of the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly</a>, I made a small and simple hair accessory to wear with my upcoming Gibson Girl evening gown. I have been hard at work sewing the dress and have made a lot of progress (I'll post some updates very soon). All the sewing time I've had lately has been dedicated to that epic undertaking, which is why I haven't been blogging much lately, and why I didn't complete a project for Challenge #6 (I have several striped garments in planning stages, but just didn't have time to work on any of them this month). Taking a break from garment construction to whip up this accessory was a welcome break.<br />
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The window of time I am focusing on for this project is the years right around the turn of the century, 1899 to about 1903. If you spend as much time looking at fashion plates from that period as I have, you will notice that the increasingly voluminous hairstyles are often accompanied by sprays of feathers, flowers, and/or perky ribbon bows.<br />
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Here are some examples:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n0dS5zMV9Gg/UWOMgI-6nAI/AAAAAAAABAc/6p8FOw52tZU/s1600/black-and-pink-1899.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n0dS5zMV9Gg/UWOMgI-6nAI/AAAAAAAABAc/6p8FOw52tZU/s640/black-and-pink-1899.png" width="464" /></a></div>
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1899</div>
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The lady on the right has a spray of black plumage on her head.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6oUhUCcB-kg/UWOMihxVMdI/AAAAAAAABAo/5ya7gHZx0Mk/s1600/Giant-chest-bow-1900.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6oUhUCcB-kg/UWOMihxVMdI/AAAAAAAABAo/5ya7gHZx0Mk/s640/Giant-chest-bow-1900.png" width="326" /></a></div>
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1900 </div>
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Get past her giant chest bow for a minute, and see the arrangement of ribbon loops in her hair.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nfaVII9GJZI/UWOMlMY9ITI/AAAAAAAABAs/DVEritaWlyY/s1600/velvet-ruffles-1901.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nfaVII9GJZI/UWOMlMY9ITI/AAAAAAAABAs/DVEritaWlyY/s640/velvet-ruffles-1901.png" width="398" /></a></div>
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1901</div>
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Her plumage is quite impressive.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1aAbxFx6Uf0/UWOMn1e_JSI/AAAAAAAABA0/Sk_Ad2FkpX8/s1600/pale-blue-1903.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1aAbxFx6Uf0/UWOMn1e_JSI/AAAAAAAABA0/Sk_Ad2FkpX8/s640/pale-blue-1903.png" width="386" /></a></div>
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1903 </div>
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I just love the jaunty black bow. </div>
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And here's my version (modelled on my most recent attempt at giant Gibson Girl hair):</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4Usm0rSXOko/UWONxXFkDlI/AAAAAAAABBA/pClMncvsQ9c/s1600/Gibson-Girl-Hair-Accessory-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4Usm0rSXOko/UWONxXFkDlI/AAAAAAAABBA/pClMncvsQ9c/s640/Gibson-Girl-Hair-Accessory-1.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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The ribbon bow, which seemed pretty big when I made it, is dwarfed in comparison with my bouffant updo.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VFdXzu3K9v4/UWONxdHWNvI/AAAAAAAABBE/AQUU_6HlmtY/s1600/Gibson-Girl-Hair-Accessory-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VFdXzu3K9v4/UWONxdHWNvI/AAAAAAAABBE/AQUU_6HlmtY/s640/Gibson-Girl-Hair-Accessory-2.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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A side view </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--FHQ_xaSfTM/UWONxptj53I/AAAAAAAABBM/c1zyJ81-AF4/s1600/Gibson-Girl-Hair-Accessory-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--FHQ_xaSfTM/UWONxptj53I/AAAAAAAABBM/c1zyJ81-AF4/s640/Gibson-Girl-Hair-Accessory-3.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And the hair accessory on its own. </div>
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Making it was more complicated than you might think. The feathers are small clusters of fronds that I stripped from an ostrich drab. I bound them together clump by clump, wrapping their bases in thread as I went. I then constructed the bow from black velvet ribbon, and attached the feather spray to the back of the bow. I didn't add anything to affix it to my hair, but simply anchored it in my bun with a long hairpin. </div>
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The details:</div>
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The Challenge: #7 — Accessorize</div>
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Fabric: None</div>
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Pattern: None, just improvised</div>
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Year: ca 1900</div>
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Notions: 1 black ostrich drab, 1/2 yd. 2" wide black velvet ribbon, black polyester thread</div>
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How historically accurate is it? I don't have any historical examples to compare it with, but the techniques I used are compatible with period millinery. </div>
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Hours to complete: 1 hour (not counting the updo!)</div>
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First worn: Will be worn April 27 at the <a href="http://gaskellball.com/">Gaskell Ball</a></div>
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Total cost: about $6</div>
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-37453472034784235692013-03-20T09:14:00.001-07:002013-03-20T09:16:59.047-07:00Gibson Girl Gown ProgressThis week I finally started my Gibson Girl ball gown!<br />
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After much study and deliberation, I have formulated a game plan. My vision for the dress is a bodice based loosely on this dress:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JUX_JvhEqtc/UQ8F3-8Jz4I/AAAAAAAAAyM/3wN6FDkfK7Q/s1600/1900-Doucet-sage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JUX_JvhEqtc/UQ8F3-8Jz4I/AAAAAAAAAyM/3wN6FDkfK7Q/s640/1900-Doucet-sage.jpg" width="449" /></a></div>
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1898-1900 Jacques Doucet, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80096049#fullscreenM">Met Museum</a></div>
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I love the draped crossover bodice with chiffon peeking out at the neckline, and I'm really into the idea of shoulder drapery, though I will probably use more chiffon instead of flowers. </div>
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I want my skirt to have a little more visual interest, so I'm thinking about a flounce and embellishment inspired by this dress:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7StDgZYKZ8/UQ8F3vGd9xI/AAAAAAAAAyE/Zl9s5ON9n9U/s1600/1898-1900-Worth-celestial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7StDgZYKZ8/UQ8F3vGd9xI/AAAAAAAAAyE/Zl9s5ON9n9U/s640/1898-1900-Worth-celestial.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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1898-1900 House of Worth, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80034359?img=0">Met Museum</a></div>
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Though I'm sure I won't have the patience to cover my flounce in spangles, I very much like the line of applique/embroidery where the flounce attaches to the skirt. </div>
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To plan the actual construction of the dress, I have been consulting all my usual reference books and resources. In addition, I have found Cathy Hay's <a href="http://harmanhay.livejournal.com/550905.html">Worth Oak Leaf dress diary</a> especially insightful. She faithfully recreated an incredible 1903 evening gown by the famous design house, right down to the insanely detailed embroidery. Here's the original dress:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FGTYkpKoY_0/UUkYIT7CvYI/AAAAAAAAA_M/7aSUg6DCdjg/s1600/1903-Worth-Oak-Leaf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FGTYkpKoY_0/UUkYIT7CvYI/AAAAAAAAA_M/7aSUg6DCdjg/s640/1903-Worth-Oak-Leaf.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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1903 House of Worth</div>
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And yes, her version is about as jaw-droppingly beautiful as the original. While I have absolutely no intention of putting even a tiny fraction of the effort she did into the embellishment of my gown, I found her notes, photographs, and diagrams of the dress immensely helpful. Please go visit her site and enjoy it as much as I have. </div>
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In addition to her dress diary, I have studied period patterns and dressmaking manuals, patterns taken from extant dresses, and photographs of dresses in museum collections. Based on these sources, I have identified a few nearly universal techniques for the construction of evening/ball gowns from this period: </div>
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1. The bodice, rather than being flat-lined, is built over a separate silk lining, sometimes an off-white color, sometimes a shade to compliment the outer fabric. This bodice base is boned and has a petersham waist stay, and has its own closure in either the front or the back. </div>
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An example:</div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nXKvWNWDe-Q/UUkb40ILbnI/AAAAAAAAA_U/5K8uWjGgetc/s640/1897-Worth-ribbon-bodice-inside.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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1897 House of Worth, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80095267?rpp=60&pg=1&ft=worth&what=Costume&img=1">Met Museum</a></div>
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This photo is intended to show the stay tape and label, but it also shows inside of the bodice base. Notice all the vertical seams and the hand-finishing. Seam allowances are overcast, bone casings and stay are hand-stitched in place, and the bottom edge is finished with a facing or tape. You can see the outside fabric (actually a piece of ribbon in this case) peeking out from the bottom. It is clearly separate from the lining. </div>
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2. The outer layers of the bodice are arranged and applied to this base. They have their own closure, either concealed in their drapery, or along one of the side seams. The careful placement of closures completely disguises the openings. </div>
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The same bodice as above, but from the outside this time:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EouPv7Vr_Pc/UUkdpLYmZkI/AAAAAAAAA_c/eLhBvj-pPgs/s1600/1897-Worth-ribbon-bodice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EouPv7Vr_Pc/UUkdpLYmZkI/AAAAAAAAA_c/eLhBvj-pPgs/s640/1897-Worth-ribbon-bodice.jpg" width="326" /></a></div>
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1897 House of Worth, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80095267?img=0#fullscreen">Met Museum</a></div>
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It is clear that all the frill and frouf that constitutes the outside of the bodice is lightly applied to the exterior, and is not in any way structural. The boned lining provides all the structure, the rest is just decoration. This is true even of more solid-looking bodices, like the silver-blue Worth dress above. </div>
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Here is its bodice laid flat:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3hbiHsDLFXw/UUkfxNap2dI/AAAAAAAAA_k/ibqrZMvX19k/s1600/1898-1900-Worth-celestial-gown-bodice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="430" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3hbiHsDLFXw/UUkfxNap2dI/AAAAAAAAA_k/ibqrZMvX19k/s640/1898-1900-Worth-celestial-gown-bodice.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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1898-1900 Worth, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80034359?img=1#fullscreen">Met Museum</a></div>
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If you look closely at the inside back edge, you'll see the outer fabric floating free from the lining, which has a drawstring at its upper edge (also a common feature). That back piece wraps across the back from the right hand side of the body to the left, where it fastens with hooks and eyes along the side seam (just visible in the full-length photo up above).</div>
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3. The skirt is usually separate from the bodice and has a free-hanging lining. This lining serves as a petticoat, with rows of ruffles to help fill out and support the bottom of the skirt. The skirts close at the center back. </div>
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You can see the free-hanging skirt lining in this dress:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cjzhWRERF0/UUnQ3t5Ho-I/AAAAAAAAA_0/uYn4ZkXmCbw/s1600/1899-green-velvet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cjzhWRERF0/UUnQ3t5Ho-I/AAAAAAAAA_0/uYn4ZkXmCbw/s640/1899-green-velvet.jpg" width="408" /></a></div>
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1899 House of Worth, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80028705?img=1">Met Museum</a></div>
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Within the framework of these general guidelines, there is a huge amount of variation in the patterning, cut, layering, and ornamentation. The bodice linings are fairly standard, following the common bodice shapes of the 1890s, but the skirts can be cut in any number of ways. Most are gored, but the size, shape, and number of gores vary widely. Some skirts are cut with only a single front gore, paired with large circular-cut panels extending to the back. A very few skirts are cut in a single-piece, circle skirt layout, though the narrow width of period silks makes this an uncommon technique. The gored skirts tend to have some pleating or gathering where the back portions attach to the waistband, while the circular skirts tend to be fitted much more smoothly over the hips. </div>
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I prefer this smooth-fitted approach, and also like the easiness of a circular skirt — fewer seams — so I plan to cut my skirt as one large circular shape. If you take a look at <a href="http://harmanhay.livejournal.com/468858.html">the diagram of the Worth dress</a> by Cathy Hay, you will see the shape that I am using for my skirt. This is supported by a dress in Janet Arnold, as well as a few period patterns in <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Voice-Fashion-Turn-Of-The-Instructions/dp/0963651722">The Voice of Fashion</a>. </i></div>
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I have decided to make my dress without a train, even though they were very popular in this period. Every extant dress I have seen has a long sweeping train, but I personally have no desire to experiment with dancing in one. I have seen written references to "dancing length" dresses, showing that at least some women <i>thought</i> about foregoing the fashionable trend in favor of practicality. But without having seen even one example of such a dress, I am doubtful as to the historical accuracy of my choice. Since I am wearing this to a ball where I will be dancing for hours, I have decided that I am willing to compromise historical accuracy in order to be able to dance without fear of me or anyone else stepping on my elegant train and tearing it to pieces. These are the choices we costumers must sometimes make. </div>
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Here's a lovely painting showing ladies dancing in dresses that do not appear to have long trains:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LPCOfcLmrds/UUnfUKs8lbI/AAAAAAAABAM/lCBw3DxynFY/s1600/The-Ball-by-Victor-Gabriel-Gilbert.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="446" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LPCOfcLmrds/UUnfUKs8lbI/AAAAAAAABAM/lCBw3DxynFY/s640/The-Ball-by-Victor-Gabriel-Gilbert.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>The Ball</i>, Victor Gabriel Gilbert</div>
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For my bodice base, I am using the basic 1890s bodice pattern from <i>Period Costume for Stage and Screen</i> (pg 146-7). I considered using the Truly Victorian <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=90&cat=6&page=1">1892 Ball Gown Bodice</a>, which would have given a similar shape (raising the bottom edge, and dropping the giant sleeves of course), but decided to save my money and just work with the pattern from the book. I was very lucky, the pattern required very little alteration once I scaled it up. </div>
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While doing this research and planning my patterns, I was also collecting materials. I found a muted blue-green silk taffeta for the main body of the dress. To trim it, I decided on a pale pink silk chiffon for the drapery and skirt flounce, and a peachy rose silk taffeta for accents. For lining, I settled on a pale pink acetate taffeta; I would have bought silk, but couldn't justify the extra expense for something that no one will really see. It has a similar hand and body to silk, and it breathes. At $3/yard, I couldn't resist.<br />
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For embellishment, I bought a beaded trim in grey and silver that I thought was somewhat evocative of the cloud motifs on the blue Worth dress above. I also plan to accent the dress with black velvet. </div>
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Here's a picture of all my materials together:<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aL0ZltfLZ8s/UUnUtmhqJWI/AAAAAAAAA_8/DHfyXp_XFuo/s1600/Gibson-Girl-gown-materials.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aL0ZltfLZ8s/UUnUtmhqJWI/AAAAAAAAA_8/DHfyXp_XFuo/s640/Gibson-Girl-gown-materials.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">From left to right: pink acetate taffeta for my lining, blue-green silk taffeta for the body of the dress (shown with the grey and silver beaded trim for embellishing the skirt), peachy pink silk taffeta for an accent color, pale pink chiffon for the neckline/shoulders and the skirt flounce (shown with black velvet ribbon, which will get worked in somewhere)</span></div>
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I have already made mockups of my bodice base (from Jean Hunnisett) and my skirt pattern (from the Oak Leaf dress and a dress in <i>Patterns of Fashion </i>by Janet Arnold, pg 50-51). I cut out the bodice lining, the skirt lining, and outer skirt over the weekend, and will hopefully start sewing my dress this week!</div>
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I'll post an update once I have something worth seeing. </div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-41633714512199777492013-03-11T08:46:00.000-07:002013-03-11T08:50:56.135-07:00Knitted GartersThe latest challenge in the Historical Sew Fortnightly, <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/the-hsf-challenge-5-peasants-and-pioneers/">Challenge #5: Peasants and Pioneers</a>, was somehow very difficult for me. I spent most of the fortnight wondering what on earth I could make that would fit the challenge and also be useful to me. I don't do any serious reenacting or living history; my historical dressing consists almost entirely of wearing ball gowns to local themed dances. The only real opportunity I have of dressing in simple everyday clothing is the Dickens Fair, and I just made myself a <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/1840s-day-dress.html">completely new ensemble</a> for that last fall.<br />
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I wracked my brain for 12 of the 14 days, then woke up Saturday morning with a plan: I would make a small, simple knitted project. While knitting can be very complex and delicate, it can also be quite practical and workaday — perfect for the current challenge. Upperclass ladies of leisure might knit fancy silk purses, but every working class woman learned to knit as an economical way to provide her family with stockings and other useful articles. After a quick brainstorming/internet-surfing session, I decided to make knitted garters. They are a small, quick knit, can be worn with the fanciest of ball gowns, but would have been made by even the lowliest peasant girl in the 19th century as an opportunity of honing her knitting skills.<br />
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The first search hit on Google for "knitted garters" leads to <a href="http://worldturndupsidedown.blogspot.com/2009/10/garter-pattern-from-godeys-ladys-book.html">this lovely post from the blog World Turn'd Upside Down</a>, complete with a pattern and helpful interpretive drawings. The pattern was published in Godey's Lady's Book in 1862, but is similar in style to instructions found in the Workwoman's Guide and other earlier sources.<br />
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I present to you my peasant girl knitted garters:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vDKnQqKeVRw/UT33PRM12eI/AAAAAAAAA-0/x6_5U81gnKM/s1600/1862-knitted-garters-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vDKnQqKeVRw/UT33PRM12eI/AAAAAAAAA-0/x6_5U81gnKM/s640/1862-knitted-garters-1.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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The Challenge: #5 — Peasants and Pioneers</div>
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Fabric: None</div>
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Pattern: "A New Style of Garter" from Godey's Lady's Book 1862, as shared and explained on <a href="http://worldturndupsidedown.blogspot.com/2009/10/garter-pattern-from-godeys-ladys-book.html">World Turn'd Upside Down</a></div>
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Year: 1862, but appropriate for any part of the mid-19th century</div>
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Notions: Fingering weight wool yarn from my stash (white and burgundy), size 1 knitting needles</div>
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How historically accurate is it? Very accurate. The materials are very close to what would have been used, and I followed the pattern exactly. The only part I'm not certain about is the needle size, but I think I was pretty close. </div>
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Hours to complete: 5-6</div>
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First worn: Will be worn later this year</div>
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Total cost: Nothing — materials came entirely from my stash. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZgsuvqnM1Y/UT33Ow-1HFI/AAAAAAAAA-k/5VHGxLKtIW8/s1600/1862-knitted-garters-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZgsuvqnM1Y/UT33Ow-1HFI/AAAAAAAAA-k/5VHGxLKtIW8/s640/1862-knitted-garters-3.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here they are tied. They're not holding anything up, as I don't have any period appropriate stockings to wear them with yet. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EtVGoMuy-Bo/UT33O3AdlhI/AAAAAAAAA-o/Qw3MPCG6Amo/s1600/1862-knitted-garters-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EtVGoMuy-Bo/UT33O3AdlhI/AAAAAAAAA-o/Qw3MPCG6Amo/s640/1862-knitted-garters-2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I love any excuse to make a tassel. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uzNsPgf_2OA/UT35lR6OF1I/AAAAAAAAA-8/W3qXx9NfCR0/s1600/Godey's-New-Style-of-Garter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uzNsPgf_2OA/UT35lR6OF1I/AAAAAAAAA-8/W3qXx9NfCR0/s640/Godey's-New-Style-of-Garter.jpg" width="410" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">This is the drawing that accompanied the original pattern. I did pretty good, I think!</span></div>
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<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-58569942566769556722013-03-06T14:23:00.001-08:002013-03-06T14:29:35.190-08:001830s-1840s Underpinnings<br />
Here are my 1830s-1840s underpinnings, as worn last week with my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/03/late-1830s-ballgown.html">blue late 1830s ball gown</a> (seen hanging in the background of all these pictures). They were also worn in December with my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/1840s-day-dress.html">brown wool Dickens Fair dress</a>.<br />
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The finished effect:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9u9Asq7ysMI/UTYeHnxV2MI/AAAAAAAAA84/K0mU-NDH69c/s1600/1840s-petticoats-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1830s underpinnings" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9u9Asq7ysMI/UTYeHnxV2MI/AAAAAAAAA84/K0mU-NDH69c/s640/1840s-petticoats-5.jpg" title="1830s underpinnings" width="426" /></a></div>
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Now let's break down what goes into giving me this silhouette.<br />
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First, a hand-sewn chemise made from diagrams and instructions in the <a href="http://books.google.com/books/about/The_workwoman_s_guide_containing_instruc.html?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ" style="font-style: italic;">Workwoman's Guide</a>. It is a transitional style, bridging the gap between the squares-and-rectangles shifts of the early 19th century and the curved and gathered yoke chemises of the 1850s and 1860s. It is still cut entirely in rectangles and gores, but has full, gathered sleeves and a front flap to cover the top edge of the corset:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1tkidYFF-08/UTYeESUo_UI/AAAAAAAAA7o/RiiuDKdZhZk/s1600/1840s-chemise-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1830s chemise" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1tkidYFF-08/UTYeESUo_UI/AAAAAAAAA7o/RiiuDKdZhZk/s640/1840s-chemise-1.jpg" title="1830s chemise" width="426" /></a></div>
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I wish I had pressed it before taking these pictures.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vxft2v6pB0w/UTYeFSlmA5I/AAAAAAAAA78/VzLb5Ayie2Q/s1600/1840s-chemise-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1830s chemise detail" border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vxft2v6pB0w/UTYeFSlmA5I/AAAAAAAAA78/VzLb5Ayie2Q/s640/1840s-chemise-2.jpg" title="1830s chemise detail" width="640" /></a></div>
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I based my chemise primarily on this historical example:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uxNXeQLmwqI/UTPlXBBNP2I/AAAAAAAAA58/uxSfLpvMOSo/s1600/1830s-chemise.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uxNXeQLmwqI/UTPlXBBNP2I/AAAAAAAAA58/uxSfLpvMOSo/s640/1830s-chemise.png" width="523" /></a></div>
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1830s <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1350113">National Trust Collections</a></div>
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Luckily for me, this chemise is documented in <i>Costume in Detail</i> (pg 173-4). It also has many traits in common with chemises in the plates for the <i>Workwoman's Guide</i>. Mine is hand-sewn from pima cotton broadcloth (though it should more properly be linen). I think it is beautiful, and it is perfectly comfortable to wear under my day dress, but I don't think I'll wear it again with a ball gown. It is very difficult to get it to sit right with a lower neckline, and when dancing the shoulders tend to fall down. They then bind and pinch and make my shoulder/upper arm very uncomfortable — not ideal for an evening of dancing. This doesn't happen when worn with a higher neckline, as the chemise can then sit properly up on my shoulders. </div>
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Over the chemise, I wore my go-to mid-19th century corset, a heavily modified version of <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-2612-costumes.aspx">Simplicity 9769</a>: </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kNFN2cJZ_A/UTYeImVO7GI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/BctJbOqSqdo/s1600/1860s-corset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="mid-19th century corset" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kNFN2cJZ_A/UTYeImVO7GI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/BctJbOqSqdo/s640/1860s-corset.jpg" title="mid-19th century corset" width="426" /></a></div>
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It fits pretty well, is fairly comfortable, and gives a nice silhouette. However, I wish it had more hip flare (something my corsets pretty much always need). I also experience some lower back pain after a few hours of dancing in it, probably a consequence of not having enough room in the back hip area. I think this summer I will make a replacement, maybe something with gussets and hip gores to allow for a curvier shape. </div>
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Next I added a bustle pad:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UnfmjwX0Ag/UTYeEaqTxlI/AAAAAAAAA7w/MbJQfdy1yJI/s1600/1840s-bustle-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="bustle pad" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UnfmjwX0Ag/UTYeEaqTxlI/AAAAAAAAA7w/MbJQfdy1yJI/s640/1840s-bustle-1.jpg" title="bustle pad" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q3zBAWpyUmc/UTYeEZT4T2I/AAAAAAAAA7s/TV9A8J0tvTQ/s1600/1840s-bustle-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="bustle pad side view" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q3zBAWpyUmc/UTYeEZT4T2I/AAAAAAAAA7s/TV9A8J0tvTQ/s640/1840s-bustle-2.jpg" title="bustle pad side view" width="426" /></a></div>
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I find that despite my natural rear padding, my skirts don't achieve the desired fluffy bell curve in the back without some additional padding. I initially tried a smaller round-ish pad, maybe 6-8" across and 5" or so deep. (I wore that bustle with my <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/1840s-day-dress.html">Dickens Fair dress</a>.) I found, however, that it didn't provide quite enough floof for my taste, and so made this larger, thicker bustle the morning of the ball. It extends all the way to my sides and is more tightly stuffed than my last bustle. In these pictures, it almost seems like too much bustle, but the wool batting inside compacted slightly as the night wore on, and I'm quite happy with the resulting shape. It is sewn from white linen, with cotton twill tape ties. </div>
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Now for the petticoats: </div>
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First is a simple base petticoat of two 45" panels of pima cotton broadcloth, hemmed to lower-calf length: </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RrXS_Or30ik/UTYeGSoLjZI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/H_UYNPK0CUw/s1600/1840s-petticoats-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="petticoat 1" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RrXS_Or30ik/UTYeGSoLjZI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/H_UYNPK0CUw/s640/1840s-petticoats-1.jpg" title="petticoat 1" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wxncn-4JurU/UTYeGy7eBTI/AAAAAAAAA8g/yx16gw__xvg/s1600/1840s-petticoats-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="petticoat 1 side" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wxncn-4JurU/UTYeGy7eBTI/AAAAAAAAA8g/yx16gw__xvg/s640/1840s-petticoats-2.jpg" title="petticoat 1 side" width="426" /></a></div>
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The next layer is a corded petticoat:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eeY8Y1OAM04/UTYeFnbPSiI/AAAAAAAAA8E/MMFHQjfPu2w/s1600/1840s-corded-petticoat-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="corded petticoat" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eeY8Y1OAM04/UTYeFnbPSiI/AAAAAAAAA8E/MMFHQjfPu2w/s640/1840s-corded-petticoat-1.jpg" title="corded petticoat" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PwPGpqSw8_0/UTYeFSNJIMI/AAAAAAAAA8I/Ej5Iy88zdDQ/s1600/1840s-corded-petticoat-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="corded petticoat side" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PwPGpqSw8_0/UTYeFSNJIMI/AAAAAAAAA8I/Ej5Iy88zdDQ/s640/1840s-corded-petticoat-2.jpg" title="corded petticoat side" width="426" /></a></div>
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I labored over this for months (all hand-sewn, remember), but I think it was well worth it. It is two 45" panels of plain cotton muslin with Sugar 'n' Cream cotton yarn for the cording. When I started, my plan was to fold up a deep hem, sandwiching rows of cording between the fabric layers, as shown in <a href="http://thelacedangel.blogspot.com/2013/01/making-corded-petticoat.html">this tutorial by The Laced Angel</a>. You can see that there are about 35 rows of cording at the hem of the petticoat done in this style. Those 35 rows took forever!! (Did I mention I was doing this by hand?) </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zBdI_8jhpRs/UTYeGVsS2WI/AAAAAAAAA8U/96JnKEuQCjE/s1600/1840s-corded-petticoat-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="corded petticoat detail" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zBdI_8jhpRs/UTYeGVsS2WI/AAAAAAAAA8U/96JnKEuQCjE/s640/1840s-corded-petticoat-3.jpg" title="corded petticoat detail" width="426" /></a></div>
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Miles and miles of cording!!</div>
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I decided to speed things up a bit by changing to another method of cording, the one demonstrated in <a href="http://www.historicallydressed.com/research/cordedpetticoats.html">this tutorial at Historically Dressed</a>. Each row of cording is sewn into a small tuck in the fabric, wrapped tightly the same way you would make your own covered piping. With this style of cording, each tuck takes out a little bit of the petticoat's length, so remember to plan accordingly. Otherwise, you'll have to do what I did and add some extra fabric on top to make the petticoat long enough. This method went much faster and enabled me to actually finish the petticoat, instead of throwing it away from myself in frustration. I started by spacing my cords about 1/2" apart, but the spacing got wider as I went up the petticoat (and grew increasingly impatient to be finished with it). Luckily, that was a common look in period examples, like this one:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LoKzHvWL7Ew/UTVrmG2Z0fI/AAAAAAAAA6M/1KEQ8QIQEIw/s1600/1830s-corded-petticoat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LoKzHvWL7Ew/UTVrmG2Z0fI/AAAAAAAAA6M/1KEQ8QIQEIw/s640/1830s-corded-petticoat.jpg" width="411" /></a></div>
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1830s <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80003265?rpp=60&pg=2&ft=petticoat&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=120">Metropolitan Museum</a></div>
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As an additional FYI, I find that this second method of cording gives much more volume and support than the first method. They both stiffen the fabric considerably, especially with a good starching, but the tucked cording resists crumpling more than the sandwiched cording. </div>
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On top of the corded petticoat is a plain petticoat with a deep hem and one 1/2" tuck (added to shorten the petticoat):</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qrvGglhaat8/UTYeHWrfDmI/AAAAAAAAA8w/3oNRn4OumR8/s1600/1840s-petticoats-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="petticoat 2" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qrvGglhaat8/UTYeHWrfDmI/AAAAAAAAA8w/3oNRn4OumR8/s640/1840s-petticoats-3.jpg" title="petticoat 2" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T7AzI8a_YDA/UTYeHaEEd4I/AAAAAAAAA8s/g-DEQYT0kOE/s1600/1840s-petticoats-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="petticoat 2 back" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T7AzI8a_YDA/UTYeHaEEd4I/AAAAAAAAA8s/g-DEQYT0kOE/s640/1840s-petticoats-4.jpg" title="petticoat 2 back" width="426" /></a></div>
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And one final petticoat, this time with a shallower hem and eight 1/2" tucks (it started with seven, as I prefer the aesthetic symmetry of odd numbers, but this petticoat also needed shortening):</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9u9Asq7ysMI/UTYeHnxV2MI/AAAAAAAAA84/K0mU-NDH69c/s1600/1840s-petticoats-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="tucked petticoat" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9u9Asq7ysMI/UTYeHnxV2MI/AAAAAAAAA84/K0mU-NDH69c/s640/1840s-petticoats-5.jpg" title="tucked petticoat" width="426" /></a></div>
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These two outer petticoats are both made from two and a half panels of 45" pima cotton broadcloth, to a total circumference of ~110".<br />
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Look at that fluff!! Who needs hoop skirts anyway? I love the soft bell silhouette, and all those layers are wonderful to move and dance in. Instead of the pendulous swinging of a crinoline, you get a soft, rustling swirl of fabric. It's delightful.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mkfvN9_lx8Y/UTYeIfhg1WI/AAAAAAAAA9I/Kv9xCwGhC8M/s1600/1840s-petticoats-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="tucked petticoat side " border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mkfvN9_lx8Y/UTYeIfhg1WI/AAAAAAAAA9I/Kv9xCwGhC8M/s640/1840s-petticoats-6.jpg" title="tucked petticoat side " width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uqtF8aJx3LM/UTYeIcRUTkI/AAAAAAAAA9E/XDqL2qu8hf4/s1600/1840s-petticoats-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="tucked petticoat back" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uqtF8aJx3LM/UTYeIcRUTkI/AAAAAAAAA9E/XDqL2qu8hf4/s640/1840s-petticoats-7.jpg" title="tucked petticoat back" width="426" /></a></div>
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So much floof!</div>
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The crucial step to ensure that you get the desired volume with petticoats alone is to starch the heck out of them. I use plain old cornstarch. The process in brief:</div>
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1. Make a solution of starch and water. It doesn't take much — 1/4 cup starch to a quart of water, dissolving the starch in a small amount of water first before adding the rest. </div>
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2. Boil it for a minute or two until it thickens. </div>
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3. Let it cool, and dilute it as necessary. </div>
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4. Dunk the petticoats, then squeeze out the excess (I use a spin cycle in my washing machine). </div>
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5. Hang to dry. </div>
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6.When you're ready to press them, it's best to dampen them slightly first. This gives them a smooth glossy finish. </div>
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Here's a great shot of my petticoats after starching (but before pressing): </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LOjiucPTIWc/UTdy6z1wQ_I/AAAAAAAAA-U/_TxECzXtODY/s1600/starched-petticoats.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="starched petticoats" border="0" height="548" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LOjiucPTIWc/UTdy6z1wQ_I/AAAAAAAAA-U/_TxECzXtODY/s640/starched-petticoats.JPG" title="starched petticoats" width="640" /></a></div>
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They are literally standing up on their own. </div>
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(The cat is included for scale — no, he was just being nosey.)</div>
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Starching takes a long time, and must be repeated every time you wash the petticoats, but it is so worth it. Not only does it greatly enhance the floof factor, but it makes the fabric crisp and rustley — very satisfying. </div>
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To see what these petticoats look like under dresses, visit these previous posts:</div>
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<a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/03/late-1830s-ballgown.html">Late 1830s Ball Gown</a></div>
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<a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/01/1840s-day-dress.html">1840s Day Dress</a></div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-44714005990037401392013-03-06T08:29:00.000-08:002013-03-06T14:24:33.500-08:00Late 1830s BallgownWell, I've had a busy couple of weeks! Two different balls, two completely different costumes — so much sewing and preparation, I haven't had a lot of time for blogging. Time to catch up!<br />
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Two Saturdays ago, I attended the Gaskell Ball in Oakland, wearing a dress I made and wore for the first time last year, but never properly photographed. This time around, I had my husband take a ton of photos so I could share them here.<br />
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The finished ensemble:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sYnu9y2FDu4/UTdpxlGFBeI/AAAAAAAAA-A/gzqbka0P7VU/s1600/blue-1830s-ball-gown-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Ball Gown" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sYnu9y2FDu4/UTdpxlGFBeI/AAAAAAAAA-A/gzqbka0P7VU/s640/blue-1830s-ball-gown-1.jpg" title="Late 1830s Ball Gown" width="426" /></a></div>
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There is a bit of back story to this dress — it has has actually been through a few incarnations. I bought the fabric about 4 years ago to make my very first "Victorian" ball gown. It was also the first large sewing project I tackled when I started sewing again after college. Fearless and over-confident in my meager abilities, I bought 5 yards of very nice blue silk shantung and jumped right in. I had no idea what I was doing, but managed to pull off a fairly accurate-ish 1850s gown that I wore a few times, re-trimming it over and over again with varying degrees of success. The skirt was made to fit over a (rather too large) round hoop, and the bodice was draped with the help of a friend, but never fit well enough for my taste. I can't seem to find a single decent picture of the early incarnations of this dress. (This is why I started this blog, so I won't wear costumes without photographing them!)<br />
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After re-trimming it for the third or fourth time, I grew tired of the thing, and tossed it in the closet. I then made a series of new ball gowns, most of which were made to fit over a gigantic mid-1860s elliptical crinoline, and forgot about the blue dress entirely. <br />
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Last year, I decided to take a break from large hoop skirts and made a series of petticoats that would suit the 1830s and 1840s. I wanted a ball gown to wear with them for the summer Gaskells, but I didn't have time to plan and make a whole new dress. Just when I was starting to contemplate wearing one of my old dresses instead, I happened to find 1-1/2 yards of the same blue silk shantung at a remnant sale at the shop where I originally purchased my fabric. The universe seemed to be telling me to resuscitate the blue ballgown languishing in the back of my closet. I snatched up the remnant and got to work. I used the skirt from my original dress (3 panels of the 54" wide silk), but shortened it and pleated it to a new waistband. The remnant of silk became a new late 1830s bodice and I had a brand new (looking) dress! <br />
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My goal was to achieve that slightly frilly, yet relatively restrained look that served as a transition from the over-the-top Romanticism of the 1830s and the tight, angular Gothic sensibility of the 1840s. The style of my dress fits into a narrow window of about 1837-1840, when the giant gigot sleeve of the mid-1830s had collapsed, pleated tightly to the upper arm, but with fullness retained just above the elbow. Here's a fashion plate illustrating the silhouette:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lnmAve_U4g4/UTdnWo2egvI/AAAAAAAAA9c/JbXpcL8fysE/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-03-09+at+9.23.45+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lnmAve_U4g4/UTdnWo2egvI/AAAAAAAAA9c/JbXpcL8fysE/s640/Screen+shot+2011-03-09+at+9.23.45+AM.png" width="442" /></a></div>
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My bodice is taken from the <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=99&cat=1&page=1">Truly Victorian Romantic Era dress pattern (TV455)</a>, but with a sleeve I drafted myself. Without the pleating on the upper arm, the sleeve would be simply a giant puff. All the extra fullness is controlled on top with narrow knife pleats that were stitched in place before the sleeve was made up, leaving a puff at the bottom. I covered the stitching lines with bands of a not-quite-matching blue velvet ribbon, which I also used to trim the bow on the front of the dress. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7YoeYKvT9hA/UTdpxkUhNAI/AAAAAAAAA90/jKqaOYkFym8/s1600/blue-1830s-ball-gown-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Ball Gown" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7YoeYKvT9hA/UTdpxkUhNAI/AAAAAAAAA90/jKqaOYkFym8/s640/blue-1830s-ball-gown-2.jpg" title="Late 1830s Ball Gown" width="426" /></a></div>
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The dress was made in a hurry, and the pattern was easy and well-drafted (I've really come to expect that from Truly Victorian). It actually fits me a bit better than it looks in these pictures — my corset was laced a bit tighter than it should have been. I used hook-and-eye tape for the back closure, the first time I've done such a thing for a period dress. Apparently it is less incorrect than it seems. Anyway, it worked and was faster than sewing the hooks and eyes one at a time.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgnoLHrUVfk/UTdpycrqbII/AAAAAAAAA-I/nmZizsjhs3U/s1600/blue-1830s-ball-gown-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Ball Gown back view" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgnoLHrUVfk/UTdpycrqbII/AAAAAAAAA-I/nmZizsjhs3U/s640/blue-1830s-ball-gown-4.jpg" title="Late 1830s Ball Gown back view" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-irzXs04z1Q4/UTdpySwD54I/AAAAAAAAA-Q/K8AjCHTHC54/s1600/blue-1830s-ball-gown-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Ball Gown side view" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-irzXs04z1Q4/UTdpySwD54I/AAAAAAAAA-Q/K8AjCHTHC54/s640/blue-1830s-ball-gown-3.jpg" title="Late 1830s Ball Gown side view" width="426" /></a></div>
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The black netted silk mitts were purchased from Lacis in Berkeley. The store owner told me that they were commissioned for the store back in the 1970s, and were made using an old machine from the 19th century. Pretty fabulous, I think. They only cost $30, and held up perfectly to a night of vigorous dancing.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8WUgz3rrglk/UTdpzGKUNLI/AAAAAAAAA-M/I_9YA0tgki0/s1600/blue-1830s-ball-gown-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Ball Gown bodice detail" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8WUgz3rrglk/UTdpzGKUNLI/AAAAAAAAA-M/I_9YA0tgki0/s640/blue-1830s-ball-gown-5.jpg" title="Late 1830s Ball Gown bodice detail" width="426" /></a></div>
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I am wearing a black velvet neck ribbon, fastened at the throat with my grandmother's cameo (which makes frequent appearances with my costumes). I don't know much about it, but I'm guessing by the style of the pin closure that it is from the 19th century. It has a small hinged loop that allows it to be worn as a pendant as well as a brooch. So versatile and appropriate.<br />
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I carried a cheap paper fan that happens to match my color scheme perfectly. (I bought a handful of these fans at Daiso last year —they are cheap enough that I wouldn't mind losing them, but work well for keeping me cool between dances.)</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3uwO29MnPcc/UTdpxfP_u-I/AAAAAAAAA9w/erRE0uSzFzc/s1600/1830s-hairstyle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Hairstyle" border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3uwO29MnPcc/UTdpxfP_u-I/AAAAAAAAA9w/erRE0uSzFzc/s640/1830s-hairstyle.jpg" title="Late 1830s hairstyle" width="640" /></a></div>
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My headpiece is a recycled and re-trimmed bit of fluff — silk ribbons, assorted flowers, and a scrap of antique chantilly lace, stitched delicately onto a frame of covered millinery wire. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sYnu9y2FDu4/UTdpxlGFBeI/AAAAAAAAA-A/gzqbka0P7VU/s1600/blue-1830s-ball-gown-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Late 1830s Ball Gown" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sYnu9y2FDu4/UTdpxlGFBeI/AAAAAAAAA-A/gzqbka0P7VU/s640/blue-1830s-ball-gown-1.jpg" title="Late 1830s Ball Gown" width="426" /></a></div>
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All those elements come together quite nicely, I think. The outfit was fun to wear and was just different enough from the typical 1850s cupcake dresses that are usually seen at Gaskells. </div>
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Curious about what's going on underneath that skirt? <a href="http://frolickingfrocks.blogspot.com/2013/03/1830s-1840s-underpinnings.html">Underpinnings</a> are coming up next! </div>
<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-66505616888239402952013-02-25T21:45:00.000-08:002013-03-03T20:04:40.904-08:00Painted PemberleysI present to you my submission for <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/the-hsf-challenge-4-embellish/">HSF Challenge #4 - Embellish</a>: my new <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/shoes-18th-century/pemberley-regency-leather-shoes">American Duchess "Pemberley"</a> shoes, painted in the style of the late 1790s. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fE0xLbFZKNg/USwsqr7pH7I/AAAAAAAAA2U/ATvHossEryY/s1600/Pemberley-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="American Duchess Pemberley" border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fE0xLbFZKNg/USwsqr7pH7I/AAAAAAAAA2U/ATvHossEryY/s640/Pemberley-1.jpg" title="American Duchess Pemberley" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7hX_McNsTmg/USwsrr1P3ZI/AAAAAAAAA20/K0bs6tChW7E/s1600/Pemberley-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="American Duchess Pemberleys" border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7hX_McNsTmg/USwsrr1P3ZI/AAAAAAAAA20/K0bs6tChW7E/s640/Pemberley-2.jpg" title="American Duchess Pemberleys" width="640" /></a></div>
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I guess technically there's not much "sew" in this Historical Sew Fortnightly entry. It still counts, right?<br />
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<b>The Challenge:</b> #4 —Embellish<br />
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<b>Fabric:</b> none<br />
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<b>Pattern:</b> No pattern, but I based my design on historical examples<br />
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<b>Year:</b> 1790-1810<br />
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<b>Notions:</b> Angelus leather paints, deglazer, and finisher (available from <a href="http://american-duchess.com/">American Duchess</a> or <a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com/">Dharma Trading Company</a>); 5/8" rayon petersham ribbon for binding; 1/4" rayon petersham for covering the seams (available from <a href="http://www.britexfabrics.com/ribbon/petersham-grosgrain-1.html">Britex Fabrics</a>); 30 wt. silk thread for pompoms (also available from <a href="http://www.britexfabrics.com/notions/thread/japanese-30-weight-silk-thread.html">Britex Fabrics</a>); shoe clips; antique metal buttons<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it?</b> I would say pretty good. The shoes are painstakingly designed to be as close as possible to originals in appearance, though they are obviously made with modern materials and techniques. My trims were pretty good — the ribbon is rayon instead of silk, but the silk thread and buttons are as accurate as can be. The shoe clip hardware is obviously inaccurate, but was much simpler than trying to sew through the shoes. The style of embellishment was based closely on historical examples, as you will see below.<br />
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<b>Hours to complete:</b> around 7<br />
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<b>First worn:</b> will be worn Saturday March 2 to the <a href="http://peers.org/janeausten.html">PEERS Jane Austen Ball</a><br />
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<b>Total cost:</b> $75 for the shoes, $20 for the trimming, and $30 for the paints and supplies to a grand total of $125<br />
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Here's some more information on the planning and execution:</div>
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As soon as I started planning my Regency dress, I knew that I would need appropriate footwear, and where else can one procure such things besides American Duchess? I've had my eye on the Pemberleys for awhile, since they are literally the only available option for an historically accurate early 19th century shoe. I had a hard time getting excited about them, however, until I came across <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2012/03/v82-how-to-decorate-pemberley-regency.html">Lauren's excellent tutorial</a> on decorating them. In white, the shoe is rather bland and looks a bit like a 1980s bridal slipper, but with some paint and creativity, I could turn this plain (though elegant) little white shoe into something truly spectacular. <br />
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I immediately immersed myself in researching period examples. As lovely as these shoes look in solid colors, I soon discovered that bold stenciled patterns were all the rage in the late 1790s and early 1800s. These intricate patterns were usually executed in black over soft pastels, lending the delicate, flowerlike colors some depth and sophistication. Here are a few period examples that inspired me:<br />
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1780-1800 <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O109236/pair-of-shoes-unknown/#">V&A</a></div>
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These are my favorites. When I saw these, I knew that my shoes absolutely must have floppy silk pompom-tassels. The black trim is super chic and makes the bubblegum color surprisingly sophisticated.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DVUmdNlwZsE/USxCQEZfF3I/AAAAAAAAA4k/YYsjrmYp0IM/s1600/Manchester-seafoam-striped-slipper.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DVUmdNlwZsE/USxCQEZfF3I/AAAAAAAAA4k/YYsjrmYp0IM/s640/Manchester-seafoam-striped-slipper.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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1790-1800 <a href="http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/image.php?EMUSESSID=53198a4065e194d3a03d3c36a14199b6&imageirn=32530&r=1305020864">Manchester Art Gallery</a></div>
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I preferred the color palette of these, however, since I tend to wear a lot more greens and blues. You can also see my inspiration for the tiny stripes, though in this case they are actually leather applique instead of paint. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ehuGu_co_CQ/USxCVGgiZbI/AAAAAAAAA5A/V4FDZ6CUGOM/s1600/Met-yellow-stenciled-slipper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="338" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ehuGu_co_CQ/USxCVGgiZbI/AAAAAAAAA5A/V4FDZ6CUGOM/s640/Met-yellow-stenciled-slipper.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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1785-1805 <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80093971?img=0#fullscreen">Metropolitan Museum</a></div>
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Here's another variation on the pastel-with-black color scheme, in a slipper that is very close to the Pemberley in shape. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iYsNhxFKeis/USxCSSHXtDI/AAAAAAAAA40/Mx-sSWdAFIw/s1600/Met-green-striped-slipper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="316" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iYsNhxFKeis/USxCSSHXtDI/AAAAAAAAA40/Mx-sSWdAFIw/s640/Met-green-striped-slipper.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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1795-1810 <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80093970#fullscreen">Metropolitan Museum</a></div>
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One last example to show that my stripes are plausible. Again, notice how close the shape is to the Pemberley. </div>
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Initially I wanted to do an allover stenciled motif like the pink and yellow shoes above, maybe small flowers or something geometric. I soon realized, however, that this plan would a) take forever and b) leave a lot of room for error. The period examples I was so enamored with were made from leather that had been painted and stenciled while flat -- trying to replicate the look on all the curved surfaces of an already-made shoe would be treacherous. With encouragement from my husband, whose taste I always trust in such matters, I decided that a simple stripe pattern would be easier, faster, and safer, without sacrificing any style.<br />
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Here are some pictures of the process: <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d4Yeb1oPV7c/USwssABqSDI/AAAAAAAAA2w/PmKZBsKVEmY/s1600/Pemberley-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d4Yeb1oPV7c/USwssABqSDI/AAAAAAAAA2w/PmKZBsKVEmY/s640/Pemberley-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The white shoes, stripped of their factory finish and awaiting their first coat of paint.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jgxk-rxAdxE/USwsszaQqSI/AAAAAAAAA3A/D6PpXLmUT-o/s1600/Pemberley-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jgxk-rxAdxE/USwsszaQqSI/AAAAAAAAA3A/D6PpXLmUT-o/s640/Pemberley-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This picture shows the color saturation after one coat. As Lauren demonstrated in her tutorial, I applied the paint in thin coats, allowing each to dry before applying the next. That first coat looked awfully streaky and splotchy, but don't worry, the additional coats smooth it out!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pYg4mPm0YV0/USwss0vYQwI/AAAAAAAAA3I/c_L3KP_Z7SI/s1600/Pemberley-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pYg4mPm0YV0/USwss0vYQwI/AAAAAAAAA3I/c_L3KP_Z7SI/s640/Pemberley-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are the shoes with two more coats of blue. See, smooth even color!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uRL-v2XLSRo/USwozotBx5I/AAAAAAAAA10/6bW6i_o2yhI/s1600/Pemberley-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uRL-v2XLSRo/USwozotBx5I/AAAAAAAAA10/6bW6i_o2yhI/s640/Pemberley-6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After the blue paint dried thoroughly, I used narrow painter's tape from the craft store to mark off my stripes,</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHGQqJPVUO0/USwstNKN2HI/AAAAAAAAA3E/1UnSzhgOVbI/s1600/Pemberley-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHGQqJPVUO0/USwstNKN2HI/AAAAAAAAA3E/1UnSzhgOVbI/s640/Pemberley-7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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then applied the black paint.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ug201Ysx5oQ/USwstxQfuZI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/iMx-McPLRaQ/s1600/Pemberley-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ug201Ysx5oQ/USwstxQfuZI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/iMx-McPLRaQ/s640/Pemberley-8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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While the paint was still wet, I carefully peeled off the tape, which unfortunately let in lots of paint under the edges, and pulled off some spots of the base paint :(</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dv5pkQHh_40/USwsqr_53lI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/zfNPnKNf1x4/s1600/Pemberley-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dv5pkQHh_40/USwsqr_53lI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/zfNPnKNf1x4/s640/Pemberley-10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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About an hour's worth of retouching made the stripes look sharper.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qKwGcDfOy2o/USwsrYkEzcI/AAAAAAAAA2k/M8r7TAQMAL0/s1600/Pemberley-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qKwGcDfOy2o/USwsrYkEzcI/AAAAAAAAA2k/M8r7TAQMAL0/s640/Pemberley-11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I next painted the heels and the edges of the soles.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SXvVgkWAijE/USwsrt2AkhI/AAAAAAAAA2s/VLkqDXTJLf0/s1600/Pemberley-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SXvVgkWAijE/USwsrt2AkhI/AAAAAAAAA2s/VLkqDXTJLf0/s640/Pemberley-12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After the paint dried overnight, I applied a clear finisher to seal it in, then bound the edges in black petersham, which also covered the side and back seams. The ribbon was applied with Fabri-Tac.</div>
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The tassels were interesting to make. At first, I thought I would make a classic pompom, like you might put on a knitted hat. The period examples that I saw, however, were flatter and more drapey than a true pompom. After some experimentation, I decided on the following method:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1JISV8r7fY/USwsuaIdoYI/AAAAAAAAA3c/hRCWm0WfbQY/s1600/Silk-tassel-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1JISV8r7fY/USwsuaIdoYI/AAAAAAAAA3c/hRCWm0WfbQY/s640/Silk-tassel-1.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I wrapped a goodly bit of 30 wt. silk thread around 3 fingers,</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jlsmexJGrX4/USwsvLb67MI/AAAAAAAAA30/RXgLKbzxIJU/s1600/Silk-tassel-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jlsmexJGrX4/USwsvLb67MI/AAAAAAAAA30/RXgLKbzxIJU/s640/Silk-tassel-2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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then tied a piece firmly around the middle, leaving a cluster of thread loops,</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-70kZfengTs8/USwsvMqXj9I/AAAAAAAAA3s/gYttbBU0V6k/s1600/Silk-tassel-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-70kZfengTs8/USwsvMqXj9I/AAAAAAAAA3s/gYttbBU0V6k/s640/Silk-tassel-3.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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which I then cut to release the fringe.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FPG8yeZ72V4/USwsvnL92SI/AAAAAAAAA3w/9Z8x7AkPVuQ/s1600/Silk-tassel-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FPG8yeZ72V4/USwsvnL92SI/AAAAAAAAA3w/9Z8x7AkPVuQ/s640/Silk-tassel-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made two bundles for each shoe, stacking them thus,</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mc9zzzvjyk8/USwswdozl2I/AAAAAAAAA4A/yvw9dxPav-k/s1600/Silk-tassel-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mc9zzzvjyk8/USwswdozl2I/AAAAAAAAA4A/yvw9dxPav-k/s640/Silk-tassel-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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stitched them to a shoe clip, and added an antique metal button. Voila!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pVpa2KNOocg/USxMswOunuI/AAAAAAAAA5g/u768bS9-wBQ/s1600/Pemberley-13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="American Duchess Pemberleys" border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pVpa2KNOocg/USxMswOunuI/AAAAAAAAA5g/u768bS9-wBQ/s640/Pemberley-13.JPG" title="American Duchess Pemberleys" width="640" /></a></div>
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I couldn't be happier with these shoes. They turned out just the way I wanted them. Now I need to hurry up and sew my dress so I have something to wear them with! <br />
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Here's an extra tidbit for the challenge: you may have noticed another pair of shoes in the background of some of these pictures. While waiting for coats of paint to dry on my Pemberleys, I was also painting a pair of <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/astoria-womens-edwardian-shoe">Astorias</a> that I ordered at the same time. I wanted them in black, but they were sold out in my size. I was worried about painting an ivory shoe such a dark color, so I decided on a soft dove grey instead.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ShgzWfzc-7Y/USwsqXvQQcI/AAAAAAAAA2M/0jgPWgitHQk/s1600/Astorias.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ShgzWfzc-7Y/USwsqXvQQcI/AAAAAAAAA2M/0jgPWgitHQk/s640/Astorias.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Cute, don't you think? I wore them to work today, and they were very comfortable. All my coworkers at the fabric store loved them!</div>
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I have been sewing this week, I promise. I'll post a few pictures in a day or two once my dress is looking more dress-like. I have to hustle if I'm going to have it done by Saturday!!</div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-53152303278352185662013-02-10T23:22:00.000-08:002013-03-06T08:55:58.748-08:00Edwardian CorsetMy project for HSF <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/the-hsf-challenge-3-under-it-all/">Challenge 3#: Under it All</a> is an early Edwardian S-bend corset. I had a lot of fun making this. Usually my historical underpinnings are simple, functional items — a few tucks or a tiny touch of lace is all the embellishment I'll use. They're not meant to be seen, right? Underwear from the turn of the century was very ornate and embellished, however, so I decided to go all out on this corset. It has lace and flossing and floppy ribbon bows. I love it!<br />
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I'm wearing the corset with the self-drafted combination undies that I made last year to wear under my Titanic dress.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h6OFYkTQYrk/URiQXl7j8uI/AAAAAAAAAzE/St7bvd2Ki-I/s1600/Edwardian-Corset-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset front" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h6OFYkTQYrk/URiQXl7j8uI/AAAAAAAAAzE/St7bvd2Ki-I/s640/Edwardian-Corset-10.jpg" title="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset front" width="476" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wqenze2rFH4/URiQZ3a-SUI/AAAAAAAAAz0/-OgVEoAZVPI/s1600/Edwardian-Corset-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset front detail" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wqenze2rFH4/URiQZ3a-SUI/AAAAAAAAAz0/-OgVEoAZVPI/s640/Edwardian-Corset-6.jpg" title="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset front detail" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d_x5PKDW-co/URiQaId6duI/AAAAAAAAA0A/s0Z7NQpwcZU/s1600/Edwardian-Corset-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset side" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d_x5PKDW-co/URiQaId6duI/AAAAAAAAA0A/s0Z7NQpwcZU/s640/Edwardian-Corset-7.jpg" title="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset side" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OwttNL8MzDY/URiQY6l-vxI/AAAAAAAAAzk/sO-K0xUgSOY/s1600/Edwardian-Corset-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="bust detail" border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OwttNL8MzDY/URiQY6l-vxI/AAAAAAAAAzk/sO-K0xUgSOY/s640/Edwardian-Corset-2.jpg" title="bust detail" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BZrOk8TKIo8/URiQYz_uL1I/AAAAAAAAAzc/QkJUgkT2K5g/s1600/Edwardian-Corset-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="back view" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BZrOk8TKIo8/URiQYz_uL1I/AAAAAAAAAzc/QkJUgkT2K5g/s640/Edwardian-Corset-3.jpg" title="back view" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jm1MdKuR8u0/URiQY1iAdXI/AAAAAAAAAzg/OJfLGKCdVvo/s1600/Edwardian-Corset-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset " border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jm1MdKuR8u0/URiQY1iAdXI/AAAAAAAAAzg/OJfLGKCdVvo/s640/Edwardian-Corset-4.jpg" title="Truly VIctorian 1903 Edwardian Corset " width="426" /></a></div>
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<b>The Challenge: </b>#3: Under it All<br />
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<b>Fabric: </b>less than 1 yd of white cotton coutil, small amount white silk taffeta for binding and garters<br />
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<b>Pattern: </b><a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=110&cat=14&page=1">Truly Victorian TVE01</a> — I can't say enough good things about this pattern. It was easy to follow, well-drafted, and the sizing was spot on. The only major adaptation I made was in the seam finishing. The pattern calls for the curved seams to be unfinished. I wasn't entirely comfortable with this so I flat-felled them instead. I wish I had added a waist stay tape, but I didn't think about it until it was too late to do it without taking the corset apart. I also left out the extra padding that the pattern calls for, since I have all the built-in padding I need to obtain a true Edwardian shape.<br />
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<b>Year: </b>1903<br />
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<b>Notions: </b>size 00 grommets, lacing cord, white spring steel boning, garter clips, 40" of 1" wide elastic, 2 yds white silk taffeta ribbon, 40" of white cotton lace, 40" of 1/4" white silk satin ribbon, silk thread for flossing<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it? </b>Very historically accurate. Truly Victorian patterns are very well-drafted based on original examples. In researching trimming and embellishment, I came across several period examples that had very similar shapes and seamlines. My construction methods were all based on what I was able to observe from period corsets. Even the flossing pattern I used is consistent with originals.<br />
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<b>Hours to complete: </b>approximately 20<br />
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<b>First worn: </b>will be worn in April 2013<br />
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<b>Total cost: </b>around $100<br />
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This corset is going to be the foundation for my turn-of-the-century evening gown, so the silhouette was the most important consideration for me. This corset pattern gives a lovely curvy shape that gently adjusts the wearer's posture to give the fashionable S-bend silhouette of the period. It achieves this by allowing the bust to settle into a soft, rounded shape, while pushing the ribcage forward and the hips back. It does all this while being surprisingly comfortable. The frilly embellishment was just icing on the cake, but it certainly helps me feel more like a true Gibson Girl. </div>
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Here is one historical example I looked to for guidance on the embellishment:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EDNsWSxTh_g/URiYNWIlqxI/AAAAAAAAA0s/4MeZahnT_zY/s1600/1903-white-corset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EDNsWSxTh_g/URiYNWIlqxI/AAAAAAAAA0s/4MeZahnT_zY/s640/1903-white-corset.jpg" width="454" /></a></div>
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1903 Corset from the Metropolitan Museum (more pictures <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80096144?rpp=20&pg=10&ao=on&ft=corset&deptids=8&pos=184">here</a>)</div>
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The one technique that was new to me was the construction of the garter straps. They were easy to make, but gave the corset a very professional and period-correct finish. I'll be posting a tutorial soon!</div>
<br />Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8489218057971944765.post-87189267736761439972013-02-03T17:49:00.002-08:002013-03-06T08:58:41.495-08:00Gibson Girl GownWhile working on my Regency dress, I have also been planning my Gibson Girl evening gown. Since the turn-of-the-century/early Edwardian period is completely new to me, the first thing I did was to start training my eye to the fashionable silhouette of the period. My jumping-off point was the work of Charles Dana Gibson, an illustrator who made his name in the 1890s with his charming (and often satirical) drawings of people from all walks of life.<br />
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His most famous subject, of course, is the idealized young woman that came to bear his name: the Gibson Girl. What defines a Gibson Girl? She is decidedly upperclass, and exudes elegance and grace in everything she does. She is dignified and aloof, seemingly unconcerned with what is going on around her. She is occasionally depicted on her own, but is usually shown in the company of other people -- sometimes an elderly father or mother, more often a suitor. The other people in the drawings seem to serve one purpose: to highlight her beauty and elegance by contrast. <br />
One more thing: the Gibson Girl is always impeccably dressed. <br />
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Here are a few images to give you an idea what I mean:<br />
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<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y2BR5AyWx_Q/UQr3VlTTRcI/AAAAAAAAAv0/MHfvIe3QSXY/s640/blogger-image--862878064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y2BR5AyWx_Q/UQr3VlTTRcI/AAAAAAAAAv0/MHfvIe3QSXY/s640/blogger-image--862878064.jpg" width="428" /></a></div>
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See her elegance, poise, and utter sangfroid?</div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lQ7TAFPdFxc/UQr3XCgURiI/AAAAAAAAAv8/hiLUxrKThB4/s640/blogger-image--1791405808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lQ7TAFPdFxc/UQr3XCgURiI/AAAAAAAAAv8/hiLUxrKThB4/s640/blogger-image--1791405808.jpg" width="520" /></a></div>
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The gentleman is clearly eager to get her attention, but she seems determined to keep him at a distance.</div>
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This is one of my favorite Gibson Girl illustrations. The silly-looking father and pompous mother look on as a gangly youth vies for the attention of their daughter. The young woman does not even appear to notice him, but seems focused instead on looking as beautiful as possible.</div>
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No wonder Gibson's illustrations were so popular; who wouldn't want to be a Gibson Girl? As I design and sew my evening gown, I'm going to keep this vision of dignified elegance in mind. It's best to set your standards high, right?<br />
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The Gibson illustrations capture a mood, but don't say much about the specifics of design. For that I turned to my go-to inspiration resources: fashion plates, period photos, and extant dresses in museum collections.<br />
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Once I started to dig into the details, I was able to pinpoint the specific years that most interest me: 1899-1903. In the late 1890s, skirts become very narrow while the torso started to develop a soft, almost droopy quality. Around the turn of the century, the narrow skirts started to swell at the hem into lush, sweeping trains, while the introduction of the S-bend corset allowed the curving shape of the torso to become even more exaggerated.<br />
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Here are some fashion plates that illustrate these trends:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nj18-INHrR8/UQy7qCmbf5I/AAAAAAAAAwU/wAoiARan1As/s1600/1899-red-black.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nj18-INHrR8/UQy7qCmbf5I/AAAAAAAAAwU/wAoiARan1As/s400/1899-red-black.png" width="451" /></a></div>
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1899</div>
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This is the classic silhouette for the period: heart shaped bodice, skirt smooth over the hips with a dramatic flare below the knees.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tv2UDwqwDJ0/UQy7qikylNI/AAAAAAAAAwc/4zkKYdKCFKE/s1600/1900-pink-dress.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tv2UDwqwDJ0/UQy7qikylNI/AAAAAAAAAwc/4zkKYdKCFKE/s400/1900-pink-dress.png" width="408" /></a></div>
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1900</div>
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Another great example of the fashionable silhouette. I love the strap/sleeve drapery on this one.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zLQ_6-IEccc/UQy7qwX9K2I/AAAAAAAAAwg/rRyK4mHQxa8/s1600/1900-ribbons-and-roses.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zLQ_6-IEccc/UQy7qwX9K2I/AAAAAAAAAwg/rRyK4mHQxa8/s640/1900-ribbons-and-roses.png" width="427" /></a></div>
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1900</div>
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This exemplifies the over-embellished, frilly look that was in vogue.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xZkXS7Yq_Ww/UQy7q2J8m0I/AAAAAAAAAwk/DkQsWODI_QY/s1600/1900-roses-and-ruffles.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xZkXS7Yq_Ww/UQy7q2J8m0I/AAAAAAAAAwk/DkQsWODI_QY/s400/1900-roses-and-ruffles.png" width="289" /></a></div>
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1900</div>
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This is a little simpler, but still shows the taste for soft, feminine details.</div>
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Now for some lovely fashion photographs from the period:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iiVJRaztqYA/UQy7_t5kh-I/AAAAAAAAAxA/mNodPW8UGqY/s1600/1901-velvet-ruffles.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iiVJRaztqYA/UQy7_t5kh-I/AAAAAAAAAxA/mNodPW8UGqY/s640/1901-velvet-ruffles.png" width="396" /></a></div>
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1901</div>
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The trimming on this one feels a little over-the-top, but I love it! Those straps are especially fun.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DZt9atCpQFk/UQy7__CZptI/AAAAAAAAAxE/cu6aosw2U9k/s1600/1901-collar-and-buttons.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DZt9atCpQFk/UQy7__CZptI/AAAAAAAAAxE/cu6aosw2U9k/s640/1901-collar-and-buttons.png" width="475" /></a></div>
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1901</div>
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This one is more elegant. Look closely at the bodice and you'll notice buttons below that lapel-like drape. Too cute.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mzBLaxXECM8/UQy7_-Oh3mI/AAAAAAAAAxI/w5-5vdGBkdQ/s1600/1901-vines.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mzBLaxXECM8/UQy7_-Oh3mI/AAAAAAAAAxI/w5-5vdGBkdQ/s640/1901-vines.png" width="456" /></a></div>
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1901</div>
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Here's a great example of the trend towards fluffy embellishment on the chest area. It further emphasizes the low, rounded bustline that was popular in the period. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uGR0HS0enFo/UQy8AeEXN4I/AAAAAAAAAxM/_6MzG53CAwo/s1600/1902-fringe-dress.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uGR0HS0enFo/UQy8AeEXN4I/AAAAAAAAAxM/_6MzG53CAwo/s640/1902-fringe-dress.png" width="444" /></a></div>
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1902</div>
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This photo really shows the shape given by the straight-fronted corsets worn during this time. They push the ribcage forward and the hips back, creating a graceful (if somewhat unnatural) S-shaped curve. The rounded bust is again exaggerated with droopy trimming.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UV9oygON-k/UQy8Am7BMlI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/-0ewZXr6GJI/s1600/1903-floral-draped.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UV9oygON-k/UQy8Am7BMlI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/-0ewZXr6GJI/s640/1903-floral-draped.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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1903</div>
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This one shows the softly folded drapery that was trendy during this period. For those of you who have studied the fashions of the later Edwardian period (1910s), you know that this soft draped effect becomes even more popular in years to come. </div>
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Here are some museum dresses (all from the Metropolitan Museum — I strongly recommend following the links to their website where you can zoom in and see all kinds of amazing details):</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tPL-q-8Wy24/UQ8F4D3us8I/AAAAAAAAAyQ/e2U6YLj_fQo/s1600/1902-Worth-flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tPL-q-8Wy24/UQ8F4D3us8I/AAAAAAAAAyQ/e2U6YLj_fQo/s640/1902-Worth-flowers.jpg" width="428" /></a></div>
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1902 House of Worth (<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80094643?rpp=60&pg=19&ft=*&when=A.D.+1900-present&what=Costume%7cDresses%7cSilk%7cEvening+dresses&pos=1100">more pictures</a>)</div>
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The detail in this dress is astonishing. I especially love the soft folds of layered fabrics across the bodice. It takes a lot of work to make drapery look that effortless.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7StDgZYKZ8/UQ8F3vGd9xI/AAAAAAAAAyE/Zl9s5ON9n9U/s1600/1898-1900-Worth-celestial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7StDgZYKZ8/UQ8F3vGd9xI/AAAAAAAAAyE/Zl9s5ON9n9U/s640/1898-1900-Worth-celestial.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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1898-1900 House of Worth (<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80034359?img=0">more pictures</a>)</div>
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This one is also embellished beyond belief. The subtle star and cloud motifs give a pleasant texture, without distracting from the sweeping lines of the silhouette. Again, notice the soft draping across the bodice. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JUX_JvhEqtc/UQ8F3-8Jz4I/AAAAAAAAAyM/3wN6FDkfK7Q/s1600/1900-Doucet-sage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JUX_JvhEqtc/UQ8F3-8Jz4I/AAAAAAAAAyM/3wN6FDkfK7Q/s640/1900-Doucet-sage.jpg" width="449" /></a></div>
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1898-1900 Jacques Doucet (<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80096049#fullscreen">more pictures</a>)</div>
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This one is very simple in its embellishment, relying instead on a fabulous fabric to make an impression. I love the swags of flowers on the shoulders. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uQlpLyCqqB8/UQ8F3EheflI/AAAAAAAAAx8/w1ZSpyBhptI/s1600/1898-1900-red-velvet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uQlpLyCqqB8/UQ8F3EheflI/AAAAAAAAAx8/w1ZSpyBhptI/s640/1898-1900-red-velvet.jpg" width="556" /></a></div>
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1898-1900 French (<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80033880?img=1#fullscreen">more pictures</a>)</div>
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Just in case you were starting to think that every dress from this period was a soft pastel shade, here's a pop of color. Delicious red velvet does not need a lot of embellishment, just some gentle draping, a touch of tulle and satin, and that less-sexy-than-it-sounds bosom tassel. Love it. </div>
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The take-away from all of this is that I have my work cut out for me. Evening gowns from this era were far from simple, requiring precision fitting, skillful draping, and hopefully some interesting embellishment. But of course, none of this works without proper foundations. That curvy S-bend shape is anything but natural.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EXhmSYQitXw/UQ8PdEGP9NI/AAAAAAAAAyw/spS1K70ZJxY/s1600/TVE01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EXhmSYQitXw/UQ8PdEGP9NI/AAAAAAAAAyw/spS1K70ZJxY/s400/TVE01.png" width="211" /></a></div>
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I've made a lot of progress on the <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=110&cat=14&page=1">Truly Victorian 1903 Edwardian Corset</a><span style="text-align: center;"> that I've been making for</span></div>
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<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/the-hsf-challenge-3-under-it-all/">HSF Challenge #3</a>. <span style="text-align: left;">I'll post some photos and more info once I have it completed!</span></div>
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Nataliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17564185877621963176noreply@blogger.com1